70 degrees seems kind of warm, but it's not dangerous.
what cooling profile do you have set for your case fans? cpu cooler (I'm assuming you're using the stock cooler? and GPU? what's the average idle temperature for your CPU? what games are you playing when the temps get up to 70?
yes, next step is to carefully remove the CPU and check for any damage. And if you do not see any (bent pins, for example), then carefully take apart and then rebuild/install mobo, CPU, PSU, and 1 stick of RAM. And try again. If the one stick doesn't work, switch. Also, try each stick of RAM in each of the mobo RAM slots. Your goal is try to see if you can find a combination to get the mobo to post. Reinstalling and reseating the CPU could help.
BTW, I recommend removing the mobo from the case, if you haven't already ... to do all this. Use your mobo box as a test bench (cardboard is non-conductive).
Let us know how it goes.
On CPU_PWR2, no you do not need this--this is not the issue. CPU_PWR1 provides plenty of power for your CPU (esp Ryzen 3600). CPU_PWR2 would only be used if you plan to do some extreme overclocking (think liquid nitrogen and much higher voltages). Sorry, but Geek Squad is steering you wrong.
On what to do next, first remove the CMOS battery and then reinstall it after 10 seconds to clear the CMOS. Then I recommend starting by pairing down your build to only the PSU, mobo, CPU, and 1x stick of RAM to try to get it to boot/post. And try both sticks of RAM one at a time. If you can get the computer to post with 1x RAM, then insert the other to see if it posts. If it posts, then you can add additional components one at a time...GPU next (and boot), and then storage. Let us know what happens.
If your temps are staying at most 45 deg C, then I think you'll be fine as is. Please note that the inside of the die is likely a little higher temp than what's registering on the surface.
A fan wouldn't hurt, but I'm not sure how much it would really help without a heat sink (to draw the heat off and offer more surface area for the air to cool off the heat.
May I ask why you're playing at 1440x1080? Why not 1920x1080?
For CS:GO, you should definitely be getting higher framerate on the 1660Ti/i3-9100F. When you're playing (and getting under 100fps), what's your CPU and GPU utilization? What Nvidia driver version are you using?
I do not think getting more RAM will help with CS:GO.
You have an AM4 mobo (B450), so you need to follow the instructions for mounting the cooler for AM4 mobo (and not intel)...so you don't need the back mounting bracket (which is for intel mobos only).
Please reference pages 10-11 of the cooler manual: https://coolermaster.egnyte.com/dl/FLquKQuVvk/
Skip steps 4-9 which is for intel only.
Hope this helps.
parts list please?
What FPS are you getting on the old versus new build? And on which games? What resolution are you playing at, with what graphics settings, and at what refresh rate?
I agree that I would think you would get better FPS with a GTX 1660TI build.
You should be using the PCI-E cable that came with your PSU...with 8-pin on one side (that plugs into the PSU's PCI-E port) and 2x 6+2 connectors on the other end. (see video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HU0Aq0N004c from time 3:03 to about 3:08). Is this the cable you are currently using?
Also, can you please clarify/explain what you mean by "my current cable looks to be not working properly" ... is the GPU powering on? Are the fans spinning? Are you getting a display? Which video port are you using on the GPU to connect to your monitor/display?
Q: "PS, just out of curiosity, what's the purpose of the coffee filter? To filter the high impurity isopropyl alcohol that you get in a drug store to closer to a "clean room" purity?"
A: The idea is to use a coffee filter(s) as a napkin to wipe off the old (pink) thermal paste. Put some regular isopropyl alcohol on the coffee filter and then gently rub off the old (pink) thermal past on the NB chip die, as well as the underside of the heatsink. BTW, it's okay to just use a napkin instead of a coffee filter to wipe off the old thermal paste. Some folks prefer/recommend using coffee filters instead because they are lint free and are typically readily available in most homes.
Also, as part of this repair, you will need to apply new thermal paste on the NB die (e.g. the small chip in the middle) prior to reinstalling the heatsink. This step is critically important, b/c it's this thermal paste that transfers/conducts heat from the NB die to the heatsink itself. (Note, I'm clarifying this point in response to your statement above "So I don't think thermal paste is relevant any longer." Thermal paste is relevant to this repair.)
Note: The "thermal adhesive foam?" indicated in pic #3 is not thermal foam or thermal pads... it's just foam to set the right height/spacing/distance between the NB die and the heatsink itself, as well as above the surrounding capacitors on the green PCB. This yellow foam does not conduct heat from the NB die to the heatsink--it doesn't touch the NB die at all.
Now to your original question ... on how you can fix this heatsink problem using thermal adhesive? In theory, you could remove the (yellow) foam on the heatsink and replace it with a double-sticky adhesive that's the same thickness to re-attach the heatsink, but I'm not sure how well it will work or how long it will last.
You want proper pressure and distance for the re-applied thermal paste to effectively conduct heat from the NB die to the heatsink. You will also want an adhesive that is "just right" in strength...if the adhesive isn't strong enough, then it won't hold the heat sink over time, but if it's too strong, then you would risk pulling the NB PCB out of the MB if you had to repair it again. As to what type of adhesive to use...they don't really make a product for this specific purpose/repair. You will probably need to search to adapt a product from the hardware store--just thinking out loud, maybe some of those 3M or Scotch removable wall mounting strips? I don't know if they would be too thick.
If I were going to fix this myself, I would re-solder the heatsink mobo clips back onto the mobo. How comfortable are you with electronic soldering? Or do you have a friend that could solder the mobo retention clips back on for you?
for Division 2 benchmark, have you tried running it at Ultra, High, and Medium settings? I'm not positive, but I think on 1080p medium with an RTX 2080 you may be able to hit 144fps.
what clock are you running you CPU at? clock for GPU? are you overclocking GPU memory any?
P.S. Please reference page 16-17 of the Gigabyte GA-Z270X-Ultra Gaming mobo manual
Hope this helps
if it's a Raidmax RX-300XT, then it should have 4x SATA power cables (for powering SATA HDDs/SDDs). Have you tried connecting the SATA cable from the case to one of the PSU's SATA power cables? If so, did it fit?
Question: Is your M.2 an M.2 SATA SSD or an M.2 NVMe?
BTW, your mobo has 6x SATA ports. Even if you have an M.2 SATA, that leaves 5x SATA ports you can use. And since you have 2x SSDs (I'm assuming SATA), that should leave 3x open SATA ports.
what PSU do you have?
Yes, this is important.
Many cases have/need only 1x USB 3.0 header for the USB 3.0 ports on the case front/top panel. But some cases require 2x USB 3.0 headers in order to support more USB 3.0 ports on the case front/top panel. Also, majority of motherboards usually have only 1x USB 3.0 header for the case front/top panel.
If your case has 2x USB 3.0 header cables for the front panel, then you will need 2x USB 3.0 headers on the motherboard to plug into. Here's a picture showing 1x USB 3.0 internal cable (from a case front/top panel) and matching 1x USB 3.0 header on the mobo: http://i.imgur.com/BqXJYkp.jpg.
what case are you looking at?
If I'm not mistaken, that is the SATA power connector for the ARGB front panel lighting for your case.
And you should plug it into a SATA power cable from your PSU.
Then voila, you've got power to the "cylon" RGB on the front of your case!
(strange that the case manual/instructions don't talk about it or show in)
which games are you having trouble getting 144fps? And at what settings? and how many displays do you play on at the same time?
Wattage: 750W will be plenty of power, to include overclocking your CPU and a 2080 Ti (assuming you're sticking with a single GPU build). 650W can handle a single 2080Ti build with overclocking. No need to go "bigger"...it wouldn't hurt to go bigger but you'd be paying for extra capacity you would like never use.
On the sound issue with your current EVGA G2 750, you may want to consider contacting EVGA tech support or jumping onto EVGA forums to ask about options to stop the noise. Can't hurt to ask.
On the EVGA G5 750, I'd have trouble recommending a G5 to anyone at this point, especially since you plan to overclock. G5 may be "newer" but it's design is not as good as the G3 or G2. I'd recommend you try to find an EVGA G3 750 or an EVGA P2 750 (realizing you're paying extra for additional efficiency and even higher quality components/design). Nothing wrong with the T2 except it sure is way expensive (compared to P2 and definitely compared to G2/G3) and you'd have to bump up to an 850W model.
Have you tried to clear CMOS yet? And if so, are you able to get back into the BIOS then?
What resolution do you record at? Is it safe to assume 1080p?
I was just thinking that depending on your use-case, you may also want to consider getting slightly faster RAM (DDR4-3000 or DDR4-3200).
What's your storage?
no need to upgrade your PSU. 750W is more than enough power to overclock you CPU and GPU, with room to spare (unless you're planning on getting into extreme overclocking). and your PSU is high quality (quality components and high performance).
On the extra 4-pin power connector on your mobo, you don't need it ... it's for extreme overclocking.
what size videos will you be editing? what video editing software will you be using?
Corsair RM 650 (2019) seems to be a good fit for what you're asking for.
Please note that you can get a Samsung 970 Evo 500GB NVMe for only $89.99 right now (https://www.newegg.com/samsung-970-evo-500gb/p/N82E16820147690?Description=samsung%20evo%20970&cm_re=samsung_evo_970-_-20-147-690-_-Product) or a Samsung 970 Evo Plus 512GB NVMe for $99.99 right now (https://www.newegg.com/samsung-970-evo-plus-500gb/p/N82E16820147742?Description=samsung%20evo%20970&cm_re=samsung_evo_970-_-20-147-742-_-Product) ... that is for just $18 or $28 more you can double your NVMe.
which cable are you referring to? cases normally do not come with SATA cables, and I don't think this case does either. can you please post a picture of the cable you're referring to?
Yes, 650W PSU is plenty of power for your build.
You'll need to give permission to folks be able to see your link.
Right now, it responds back "Permission denied."
If you didn't buy before Amazon ran out of stock, you can try Best Buy:
I forgot to mention ... yes, I used to watch Monk ... a great show!
Q: So you recommened to me to keep the g3 850 and return the seasonic ?
A: Yes. If it makes a difference in your decision, I happen to have an EVGA G3 750 on my current gaming rig (and I overclock both CPU and GPU). EVGA G2s and G3s have been rock solid for me so far. That said, I've also used other PSUs on my past gaming rigs.
Q: Also the titanium rating in a PSU mean all the components are better than gold rating ?
A: No, not necessarily. 80+Titanium is a power efficiency rating for PSUs (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus), as is 80+ Gold. Titanium-rated PSUs are more power efficient than Gold-rated PSUs. This typically means some more expensive components to get the higher efficiency, and thus the higher cost/price to get the extra efficiency. Often times, this can correlate to higher quality components, but not always. This is why it's good to check multiple professional reviews on specific PSUs, so I don't recommend assuming that any particular brand (EVGA, Seasonic, BitFenix, etc) or any particular efficiency rating (Titanium, Platinum, Gold, etc) for any given wattage would imply the "quality" of the components or how they actually perform. In the case of the Seasonic PRIME Ultra 850 Titanium specifically, yes, this is a very high quality PSU with very high quality components.
A question for you ... have you considered other Seasonic PSUs, like the Seasonic Focus Plus Gold (let's say 850W or 750W)? Good quality PSU that also happens to be physically smaller (140mm x 150mm x 86mm). So it is 30mm smaller than the Seasonic PRIME Ultra 850 (which is 170mm x 150mm x 86mm). And it happens to be about 10mm smaller than the EVGA G3 850 (which is 150mm x 150mm x 85mm).
Lots of questions and inputs from other posters as well. All good inputs. Please know that I am agnostic when it comes to any particular PSU maker--and I favor users first identifying what they need, prioritizing what is important, and then selecting the component (like a PSU) with the best "bang for the buck" for those priorities. This helps to ensure folks prioritize their spending on what they think is most important.
So with that said, I will try to answer your questions directly, realizing that you and I may have slightly different answers to these questions based on differences we may have on what we think is important. And that is okay:
Question #1: "thunder for your opinion worth for you to pay from 149.99 cost the G3 to pay 219.99 for seasonic titanium ultra ? same watts (about 70 USD diference price)"
My Thoughts #1: No, I do not think spending an extra $70 for the Seasonic Titanium Ultra 850 (over the EVGA G3 850) is "worth it" for a single GPU build. And here is my reasoning. A 550W PSU can more than handle an i9-9900K with a RTX 2080Ti, especially since you are not overclocking--which means the EVGA G3 850 is rated for an additional 300W above which you most likely will never use...much less how you would ever be able to put a higher load (up to 1194W to trigger OPP, as tested by Tom's Hardware). If you need to build a rig that peaks at nearly 1200W, then you should be buying a 1200W PSU (and not an 850W). Tom's Hardware does recommend that OPP be set to no more than 130% above max rated continuous Watts (so for an 850W PSU that would equate to an OPP trigger at 1105W instead of 1194W), but this is meant for peak power protection.
Additional Thoughts #1: Please make no mistake that the Seasonic Titanium Ultra 850 is a higher quality PSU compared to the EVGA G3 850, but with that said, I do not think you will get a return for this extra $70 cost. But this is my own reasoning for my own reasons. If you would have more peace of mind with the Seasonic PSU, then that is okay for you--and perhaps the extra $70 is worth it to you.
Statements on the EVGA G5: I would tend to agree with you and some others, because the G5 design has changed and is not as good as the G3 since the G5 uses Active Clamp design. That said, it depends upon what's important to you.
Additional Thoughts: Have you given any consideration with going with a 650W PSU (instead of 850W)? Also have you considered other PSUs besides the Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium and the EVGA G3 series? There are many other options available of quality PSUs that would give you more choices at better price points. I'm sure there are many folks here happy to offer you more options from which to choose.
Question: In cable-cap is a con or a pro for PSU ?
Answer: Neither--In cable-caps are neither a con or a pro. The reason some PSU manufacturers use in cable-capacitors is to add some additional ripple suppression--which is useful when overclocking. Most quality PSUs (such as the EVGA G3) don't really need in-line caps since the PSU is already designed for ripple suppression--the in cable-capacitors just add some extra ripple suppression. The main "downside" of in-cable caps is that they can make the cables slightly bigger/bulkier where the in-line caps are.
Question: Did EVGA fix the G3 problem (that is re: OPP and OTP)?
Answer: If by "fix" do you mean did EVGA change their G3 design for OPP and OTP? The short answer is, no--they didn't change their design (which is based on Superflower Leadex II). Should you be worried? I would say "no", for all the reasons EVGA included in their response to you. Those protections apply in more extreme use cases...which I don't think applies to you--especially since you do not overclock. Since you are using an EVGA G3 850 with single GPU and not overclocking, you will never get even remotely close to ever needing to trigger OPP or OTP protection features.
With all this said, since you already have an EVGA G3 850 (new), that will suit your build just fine. BTW, even though I don't know what your build is going to be (CPU, mobo, GPU), please know that an 850W PSU is "overkill" for your config. A 550W PSU would be more than plenty for your use case (single GPU, not overclocking). And what I mean is that if you were to build a new power-rig with i9-9900K (and not overclocking) with an RTX 2080Ti, then 550W PSU is enough with room to spare. If you plan to overclock then 650W PSU could be warranted.
Hope this helps. If you'd like some suggestions on quality PSUs that would cover your needs, please let me/us know. Also, if I may ask, what country do you live in?
theoretically, there should be no problem. what mobo do you have?
I agree with @mark5916 ... no need to upgrade your PSU.
650W PSU is fine, and it can support overclocking your GPU and GPU as well (which will draw additional wattage above the PCPP estimate).
ah ... makes sense ... might afford you the opportunity to review both (card & onboard sound) and post a unique perspective online somewhere
the card will physically fit in the mobo ... and i would expect it to fit in your case as well
will it fit? yes
but i recommend you check out the built-in sound on that mobo first -- it's high-end "audiophile grade" already, to include a higher-grade DAC w/130dB SNR and amplifier that can drive high-impedance headphones (600 ohm) no problem. and it support up to 32-bit 192KHz sound
this is part of what you get when buying a $700 mobo
I don't think spending an extra $99 on the sound card will get you anything you don't already have
To ask PCPP to add the GPU you purchased to the database, you post the info here about the GPU you bought:
Please read the very first post in this forum for the info that they need you to provide
where do you live?
Some thoughts...since the memory controller on Ryzen 2600 CPUs can support 2933 or 3200 RAM speed (and not 3000MHz RAM speed...it's a Ryzen thing), you could try to OC/XMP your RAM 3200 and test if that is stable.
sounds like a PSU problem, since the GTX 1080 Ti SC2 can draw more power (max 300W with 1x6pin and 1x8pin pcie power) than a GTX 970 (max 225W with 2x6pin pcie power)
may also be worth checking the PSU power cables, in particular the PCIe power cables to the GPU.
Your RAM is Double Data Rate (e.g. "DDR"), so for each clock "tick", DDR RAM transfers data on both the rising and falling edge of the clock signal. So you're getting just shy of 3000MHz by using XMP 3000MHz.
What's your CPU? And what mobo bios version are you running?
I agree with mark5916 -- best deal/quality PSU today is the Corsair RMx 650 (2018)--hard to beat the $86 price tag.
On your (dead) Seasonic FOCUS Plus Gold 650, have you contacted Seasonic to RMA? I would think that it is still be under warranty (they have a 10 year warranty).
Some other quality PSUs are the EVGA G3 650 and BitFenix Whisper M 750 ... both of which cost around $106 right now.
And to answer your question about "how big" of a PSU you need, a quality 650W PSU will provide enough power for your i7-8700K/GTX 1080Ti rig with overclocking.
Note, the EVGA G5 650 is also available for a great price, but I'm waiting to see how the reviews/testing goes with them first, since they are new. (the G5 replaces the G3)
Lastly, with a high end build (i7-8700k and GTX 1080Ti), I would not recommend the EVGA 650 GQ to get a PSU with only a 5 year warranty--especially for $115 bucks. There are better quality options available for less $$$.
most modern cases have built in mounts for 2.5" drives. some older cases may only have mounts for 3.5" drives which then would require a 2.5" adapter. or in a pinch, there are other creative ways to mount a 2.5" drive in a case without a built in mount (like velcro or double sticky tape). all you need is some way to secure the drive to the case so it doesn't move around.
if I'm not mistaken, the Micron 1100 512GB M.2 SSD is an M.2 SATA SSD, right? So on the B450 pro mobo, it won't work in slot M.2_1 (which only supports M.2 NVMe/PCI-e SSDs). So you'll have to plug it into M.2_2 which supports both M.2 SATA and M.2 NVMe/PCI-e SSD. You might need to check bios setting for M.2_2 slot as well to ensure it's set to SATA or Auto.
what's your budget for cable extensions?
It almost looks like you've got a Corsair Carbide 88R Micro-ATX case and not a Corsair Carbide 100R ATX case. How many PCI-e slots does your case have? 88R has 4x; 100R has 7x.
Corsair Carbide 88R Micro-ATX
then Intel 660p definitely fits the bill for you ... e.g. great "bang for the buck" for gaming