What troubleshooting steps have you taken? Can you easily replicate the results? Does it happen when doing other tasks?
The 10-1 header is actually 2 4 pin connectors put together. I am not very good when it comes to electrical and specific pin voltages etc so this comes directly from a different post:
“You can use the front panel USB ports just fine. A motherboard USB header with 9 pins is actually two rows of 4 pins, plus one pin and an empty slot to provide proper orientation for a dual (double row) USB header. What you've got is a single USB port that is 4-pin and you can install it on the motherboard header as long as you're careful to get the ground correct. You can connect your 4-pin front USB connector to either 1-3-5-7 or 2-4-6-8 and it will work. Make sure the ground (usually the black wire) is on pin #7 or #8. If you have two 4-pin front USB connectors, you can connect them both to a single motherboard USB header.”
Have you gone into your recording devices and enabled/set as preferred? Also, in that same place, have you set the voice levels, you may need to increase it if it’s too low and others can’t hear you.
Also, what kind of headphones/earbuds are you using? Do they have separate dedicated audio/mic cables? Or is it a single cable?
Does it boot to bios?
For the amount of money your already investing in this build, it’s silly not to invest in an m.2 drive with at least 500gb of storage for games. If that is out of your price range, I would still look into a newer model Samsung ssd with 500gb to 1tb if storage. Don’t cheap out on the ssd drive and have the read/write times be crap or have it break from cheap construction.
For the kind of power a setup like this will consume, id look for platinum/titanium rated psu’s with a little higher wattage to leave some wiggle room. Keep in mind “boost clocks” or overclocking will increase the “estimated wattage”. Also, depending on the amount of 8k video you plan to edit and store, your going to eat through 1tb of data very fast. I’d recommend investing in some high capacity nas/server rated hdd or if you can afford it, ssd.
Your welcome :)
In terms of “best gaming computer I can buy” I’d say you’ve pretty much achieved that. If your looking for value per dollar, there are a couple suggestions I would make.
For your friends build, I would highly suggest looking towards Ryzen for that price point. Almost $200 for that cpu is laughable when you compare what you can get for the same money with Ryzen.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Not to mention the Ryzen comes with a far better heat sink and has the amd equivalent of hyperthreading
Based on the general info provided by amazon, Motherboard size should be supported, PSU size should be supported, gpu length should be supported, and hdd mounting should be supported.
Those are the main things you want to check. Check for the mobo form factor (atx, matx, itx, etc) the PSU form factor (almost always atx for modern builds, but there are other types), the length of your gpu before interfering with the hdd cage or anything else towards the front of the case, and that there are sufficient hdd/ssd mounting locations. There are other things to keep in mind, but those are the big ones. If you had a cpu cooler in your list, I would have included support for types and sizes of those in the “big ones”.
If money isn’t a problem get either a single 1080 ti/titan or get 2 of one and sli. Keep in mind sli support is dying but when it is supported, can provided huge performance boosts. Also, if money is no object, go ahead and get the top tier intel chips. Personally, I would recommend threadripper 2; for much better performance for the money.
Desktops are intended to be left at a desk. They are not designed to moved, especially often for a “portable” build. You can find some decent laptops with 1060/1070s in them, those are truly intended to be portable. You could also invest in a laptop with a good cpu but lesser graphics and get an external enclosure for a desktop gpu. This would be the best “portable” option for thermals since the card would have plenty of space to breath and has the full heatsink/fans. It would also be rather expenses.
I would suggest you look towards a Ryzen cpu. In this curcumstance, it’s base clock is going to be higher pretty much no matter what model you choose; not to mention you’ll be able to overclock it.
You could go Ryzen and with the money saved get a 1070. Any particular reason you chose inte?
Only thing I would say is maybe look towards Ryzen too. You can find some really good deals on first gen Ryzen, even cheaper than what’s currently listed.
Evga makes some great PSUs...just like Corsair you need to pick the right models. Also, the cxm line from Corsair is one of the “lower tier” models they offer. You wanna looks towards the rm, hx, and ax variants.
This was my exact thought.
Any reason you went for that cpu over Ryzen? You can a lot better value with a last gen or current gen Ryzen.
My headphones use a 3.5mm connector. My pc can take 3.5mm, optical, or usb. PS4 is optical unless it supports audio over its USB ports. Mic I’m not worried about, I use a standalone one. Right now I’m looking to do just 2 devices. I may add more but that’s a problem for another day. If whatever way I can get this to work supports more, that’s fine.
What’s a realalistic budget for something like this? I don’t know a whole lot about audio equipment. I guess I’d be looking to spend no more than about $100, but if that’s not possible, I can go higher.
The 7820x isn’t relevant anymore unless you can get a good deal on it. The 2700x is pretty much on par and $150 less. Not to mention the “premium” paid on intel compatible boards.
There both good cpus. The 8700k will give you better single core performance which is typically better for gaming applications. The Ryzen is cheaper and has more cores and pcie lanes. If you plan on doing a lot of multitasking the Ryzen might serve you better. If you plan to have a lot of pcie cards, the Ryzen will also help with 4 extra 3.0 lanes.
Without doing to much research, from what I can see, both of those motherboards don’t have onboard WiFi. This leaves two practical options, you can get either a pcie or usb WiFi adapter or you can look into Ethernet over power options.
As for the build, any extra money you can put towards the GPU will help your gaming performance. The 1050ti is a good 1080p card, but I still wanted to mention that. You won’t see any bottlenecking from a Ryzen 5, so you could throw really
anything you can afford in there. Just keep in mind the size requirements of your case.
Lastly, I’m not a Ryzen expert so I don’t know if the top of my head, but sometimes Ryzen can be picky with the ram it works best with. I’m not familiar with the group you mentioned that you got the list from, so I don’t know if that was taken into consideration.
If you can afford the 1080, go for it. It will give you better performance. If you plan to just game at 1080p, the 1070 is more than capable.
Also, I see you have 3 drives in that list. I’m guessing your looking to do an OS drive, game drive, and extra storage? Depending on the size of your game library (or your anticipated size), I might recommend either just going for a large ssd now such as a 1tb (if budget permits) or one large “C” drive and a 2+tb hdd. 500gb will go very fast, I’m currently using over a terabyte of storage just for games and my library is not extremely big compared to some. There are fairly cheap ways to speed up a HDD and they are much cheaper. If you can withstand a few extra seconds of load screens, that might be a good option.
To add, with the psu, unless the budget is extremely strict and there is no room, it’s much easier to work with a fully modular PSU too. You can find great quality psus from evga and Corsair too that may be slightly cheaper. Seasonic tends to be slightly more since it is known as the “gold standard”.
Take a look here for some other options:
My recommendation would be to put any extra money you can to a higher tier gpu. The 1070 is a powerful card but a 1080 or 1080 ti will go the extra mile to push 2k/4K at higher refresh rates and graphic settings.
As a side note, I would hold off any any “top tier” monitors for now. There’s a a bunch of new high quality 4K monitors coming out soon that may interest you. If not, they could drop the prices of previous gen monitors after they release. I would recommend a high refresh rate 1080p monitor then see what comes out in the next month or two.
“Low and safe temps” and “OCing” usually don’t appear in the same sentence unless your looking to do light overclocks. Typically, overclocking requires adjusting the voltage of the cpu to make higher speeds stable. Increasing the voltage will increase the temp of your cpu. The art of overclocking (along with the silicon lottery) is balancing speeds, voltage, and temp until you get something stable. Speed and voltage are easy to set a predefined value, temp is usually the limiting factor, especially when you say you live in a hot climate. If you don’t get limited by temp first, the higher voltages required to maintain a stable speed will start to get out of the comfort zone.
You will most likely find yourself needed to try out different speeds and voltages while watching temps for a few hours until you find a happy medium. I suggest researching what other people are getting for temps, speeds and voltages and start a little bit below that average. Then slowly adjust your speed up before adjusting voltage. Once you get an unstable speed, slightly increase the voltage until your happy with the results or your temps get out of control. I would also do a little research into what people are suggesting for a max temp and voltage for your specific cpu. Typically anything in the 90+ temp zone is considered too high and voltages above 1.3v are considered to become “riskier”.
What’s your budget?
Also, in further researching your list, you have both a high refresh rate 1440p monitor and a 4K monitor. What is the main use of this “workstation”?
So all previous gen boards need an old Ryzen cpu to flash then? Damn, that’s unfortunate.
I saw this board; I prefer ordering on amazon and it’s not there yet. I don’t need all the premium X470 features so I guess I might as well wait for B450.
Thank you for the info.
What's the budget?
Also, it helps if you use PCPP's "system build" section to create a parts list with your current build. That way we have direct links if need be and can even use that parts list to swap parts in and out.
Building off this, when are you looking to build? With your budget and the current gpu market, you may be better off waiting until either Nvidia or AMD release a new card (and drop the current cards prices, hopefully below MSRP), or until the market just becomes more stable.
Keep in mind the current gpu market, that gpu should be priced around $200-$300 cheaper.
Case is completely up to you, I really just put a filler in there. Just do a little research on gpu/water cooling support (if you decide in the future to get an aio or even do a loop). Some cases will only support certain gpus if things like HDD cages are removed.
I would highly discourage a full loop for a first time builder, even if you plan to do it later. I would look for a case you like with AIO compatibility. There are a couple AIO's out there that allow you to expand on them. I would recommend those first if you really want to try more than just an AIO cooler in the future.
What brand/model and how old is the PSU? Many people don't know, but PSU's can be a cause for blue screens. Especially if they are of lower quality and are older.
I don't want to see you buy all this new gear only to put in the original PSU and potentially have it cause problems.
Based on your description, both your wife and you will be using this build? Photo/video editing have some different requirements than pure gaming. Not to mention she's looking to work on 4k video. Do you need a 4k monitor as well?
Define "good" in terms of your peripherals. I recommend going cheaper on those and putting the money into the build. It's much easier to upgrade peripherals in the future.
Sata SSD is going to be cheaper than an M.2 drive. You'll be able to get a drive with a higher capacity for a similar price if you go Sata SSD instead.
With the current market for RAM and GPU's, you might have to browse the used market to get what your looking for. 8gb of RAM alone is going to cost at least $50, leaving $250 for everything else. While this is possible, from the sound of it, i'm guessing your looking for more performance than what that is going to offer.
You say you have a high gift card balance on Amazon. Is that balance the $300?
What's the main use? If it's purely gaming, you can get away with 8gb of RAM and put that money elsewhere.
Also, peripherals and cases are mostly user preference. I don't have any experience with those exact ones. I do have experience with other razer products. The hardware is great, but the software can be pretty buggy in terms of lighting effects.
What's your actual budget? I presume $1500 and that includes peripherals.
Take off about 15%-30% of what you paid for it and thats what your looking at. The older the computer, the higher the percentage.
What were they thinking when they built that pc...I hope the parts were supplied by the vendors and not specifically chosen. A 5930k paired with a 980? 1300w PSU? Terrible balance of hardware.
Just a quick note, you may have more luck making a parts list and posting it (via pcpartpicker format) into your classified. Having a large block of text as the parts list probably deters a decent amount of people.
I mean, you can post where you want. You never know, you may just get lucky. I was more just giving a warning that you may not find the results your looking for. As for where to list, that's a difficult one since you don't want to ship. Most local areas will have apps/websites dedicated to selling and trading items with local people.
I know what you mean about eBay, I've sold a bunch of parts on there. I don't even want to think about how much I've lost to that 10% fee.
I'd say see if you can find what the popular "craiglist alternatives" are in the areas your willing to drive to and start from there. You could even visit local repair/part stores and see if any are willing to help in anyway. They may let you advertise/sell there for a smaller fee than eBay.
Most of the people on this site, as said, are enthusiasts. Enthusiasts like the challenge of building a pc on their own, spending hours on the cable management, getting the best possible overclock, and finally, spending hours benchmarking and stability testing.
In terms of a start up business, I agree that charging for your service is fine. Like Wolfemane said, there are plenty of people who don’t want that challenge. They just want to hit the button and start gaming. But a site like this is not the target market for your business; unless you can offer something unique.
I’ll offer, $free.
I have made a few edits to the list. Any input is appreciated.
The Ryzen 5s don't have integrated graphics.
I would love this to be a beast...
but I do not want to spend another $1000 on parts.
I would love this to be a beast...
but I do not want to spend another $1000 on parts.
What do you want to spend then?
What about the mobo do you want to know? I have an Asus x299 Strix-e board and its great.
Even if Intel had a decent single core performance lead, which it does in some situations, the pricing of ryzen makes it a great choice a majority of the time.
I chose to ignore AMD's price to performance benefit when purchasing my 7820x not because AMD/Ryzen is bad, but because i wanted the challenge of overclocking since i'm confident i can get some good results on this chip. Not to mention i'm simply just an enthusiast ;)