I’m not too familiar with streaming requirements, but when it comes to your actual download and upload speeds almost all ISPs advertise the “speed” as a “maximum” meaning you “get up to” that speed, not necessarily always have that speed.
Typically during high demand times (after dinner when everyone gets on their internet for example) the ISPs network gets bogged down and you won’t see your max speed. This can be resolved by having your own dedicated line run into the home/property, but this can be very expensive. Also, the speed can be lowered by the amount of traffic your local network has on it along with the signal strength of WiFi.
I’m not very familiar with that headset, but based on a quick read of it, it uses a USB adapter for wireless audio.
Is your computer far away from where you use the headset? The only options you’d have (and both could lower audio quality or just not work properly) are a longer 3.5mm cable for wired use, or a usb extender to plug the WiFi USB adapter for the headset into.
When you turn on the power switch on the PSU, do any lights on the motherboard come on? Also, is everything 100% plugged in such as the power button headers on the mobo, cpu power, mobo power, gpu power (if you have dedicated graphics)? Have you tried making sure there isn’t anything wrong with the outlet you are plugging the pc into?
Have you tried re-mounting the cpu with better thermal paste, also making sure the thermal paste spread out evenly? Also, what’s the ambient temperature in the room where the pc is?
Is the monitor included in the budget? If so, do you want a high quality monitor (which would cost more) or something cheaper to focus on the pc hardware (presuming also you have the vr headset already).
Budget? Monitor resolution? FPS target? What other games? (Big difference between csgo and say crisis 3)
You could try better thermal paste and a second fan on the cooler (if it’s not already in a push/pull) but you’d likely see very minimal gains. As stated already, prime95 is extremely intensive and is not reflective of real work loads. Try some gaming benchmarks and see how the temps are then.
Does the computer display turn off or is the computer turning off? How do you get the image to come back?
Wait...you installed the 2080 ti in your gaming rig which caused this issue, but then your laptop, second pc, and old pc all had the same issue without any hardware or software changes on them?
Is there any display such as bios screen?
Have you tried another cable?
Have you tried another port in your mobo/monitor (hdmi 2 or DP etc)?
If you decide not to wait, see below. However, like already mentioned, it may very well be worth while to wait for the new Ryzen processors.
I didn’t know what resolution you are playing at so I went for the higher end. If your gaming in 1080p, this is way overkill and could be trimmed down to save some decent money. Also no case because they are too subjective.
PCPartPicker Part List
Swap the ram out for this instead. No rgb swag, but lower cas latency.
What is this build being used for?
Cases can be so subjective I just tossed the first thing I saw at that price point as a place holder. Could be cheaper if OP doesn’t care about looks, but it gives a little room to work with in the budget.
I think we first need to go over that building it yourself would be the best option. See below as an example:
I tried to find exact specs on the parts in those Best Buy builds and I could not find it. Granted, I didn’t search extremely long, but it still shows that you just don’t know exactly what you’re going to get until you get it. Everything above is from a reputable brand.
Are you getting into the bios at all though? If you can get into bios but windows just fails to install every time is sounds like you have a bad windows install. If this is the case, you could try creating a bootable windows install on a usb from another computer.
Some motherboards do have connectors for rgb strips on them controllable through the manufactures software. Some boards don’t but you can still get an rgb controller and connect it via usb.
You could always get some rgb strips and put them in the case. I wouldn’t buy a motherboard simply for rgb.
Gigabyte has arguably the best power delivery of any board on the z390 chipset. You can’t go wrong with the master.
Typically, it will work. Windows can however, detect that a new mobo has been installed. I’ve been using the same install of windows since windows 8 came out and have changed mobos at least 3/4 times. Do you still have the product key?
So long as you keep both drives in the computer.
Do you have any other ssd/hdd’s To install windows on? Are you able to get into windows in safe mode? Did you change any bios settings?
Coming from someone that owns both a 7820x and 9900k rig, I can attest that Ryzen is a very viable option and its more than just cheaper. The 9900k will need some serious cooling if you want to run it over 5.0ghz on all cores. The h100i will not be adequate.
It also may be worth waiting until Ryzen 3 drops since it looks like it will give the 9900k a run for its money with both price and performance since its rumored to also be over 5ghz stock.
Notice the 2080 instead of a 2070 for less than you list.
Just a suggestion ;)
Ahh ok, I see that now. Honesty I usually gloss over the paragraph and go straight to the parts list. I guess I should probably read the description more often.
Also agree on the ram. At the very least OP, don’t go below 3000. But 3200 is defiantly ideal. Also, you’ll want to keep the CAS latency down. 14 is ideal but no higher than 16.
I can personally attest to this ram kit below. It is more expensive but it’s ideal for amd:
You can save a little money if you decide not to do “heavy” overclocking and remove the cpu cooler and possibly look for a cheaper b450 board. The stock amd cooler is suffiecient unless you want to overclock. If you just can’t do the stock cooler, at least do the hyper evo 212 and save about $50.
It is a 4K 60hz monitor, not 1080p.
One thing I am curious on though, 1080ti instead of a 2080 when you can get a 2080 for the same price?
Let’s get on thing straighted out first. Nothing is “safe” for any given amount of time. With the way technology moves today, if you were to graph it l, it would look like a straight line up. Who knows where we will be in 5 years.
Will it perform well for the next few years, yes.
And yes, there is a big difference between Intel and amd today; amd is kicking intel’s butt when it comes to price/performance. With Ryzen 3 coming up soon, it won’t be long until AMD surpasses Intel all together if the rumored prices and performance are accurate.
As a comparison of the 2 cpus here, the Intel you suggested and the Ryzen above, the Intel is a 6 core non hyperthreaded cpu. It has decent boost clocks speeds but nothing that would give you any real difference in a video game compared to amd. The amd on the other hand is cheaper, and has 12 usable threads. If you want “future proof” 12 threads is better than 6, for less money... Not to mention every cpu on the Ryzen lineup is overclockable.
I realize I sound like an amd “fanboy” here but I want to preface this by saying I have owned or currently own a 3770k, 4930k, 5820k, 7820x, and a 9900k. I also own a Ryzen 2700. Ryzen is just better currently and itntel is struggling which is good for the consumer. This will force Intel to start releasing more competitive products.
Amd is very different now with Ryzen.
You could even trim a little bit off the price with a b450 board from another manufacturer.
First question we need to get answered:
Is there a specific reason you prefer Intel? For a build with this budget, you would benefit greatly from AMD.
Only things I would suggest looking into are:
Mobo: you may want to consider an x470 board if you really want to get into overclocking. It is going to cost more so it would not be worth if you just want to drop the cpu in and forget about it.
Storage: there isnt much space here for games and other software. Even a $50 (not sure what the conversion amount is) WD blue 1tb drive would more than double the storage. Also, keep in mind that a ssd is going to get slower performance the more it fills up.
PSU: not that there is really anything wrong with the Corsair Rmx PSU, I just usually recommend a seasonic PSU since they are the top of the line and don’t cost much more than a Corsair PSU would. Corsair does not make their own psu’s unlike Seasonic.
For 1080p alone, a 1660 or 2060 would be more than enough. However, since you plan on doing 4K and vr, and since the budget permits, I would say go for the 2080ti if you’ve already set the money aside for this build.
Also, depending on when you plan to actually purchase the parts and do the build, it may be worth waiting for the newest amd processors to come out.
Slightly trimmed down build to fit a 2080ti into the budget.
This build is pretty good. Since there was still budget left, I switched out some items for faster or more effficient versions.
Ssd: large storage space, this model is know to match and sometimes beat the Samsung 970 evo in read/write speeds. It will be significantly faster than a standard Sata ssd.
HDD: the black series is regarded as the “best” from WD. More reliable and should last longer.
PSU: platinum rated energy efficiency. Seasonic is known to make the highest quality psu.
If you are thinking of doing any overclocking, I’d recommend switching the mobo out for a x470 board and getting a third party cooler instead of the stock.
If you really feel like maxing out your budget, you could likely squeeze a 2080ti in there. Not that the 2080 isn’t a beast card though. Also depends what resolution you want to play at. If you’re doing 1080p, a 2080ti (even a 2080 for that matter) would be a complete waste.
What resolution is the monitor? 1080p, 2k, widescreen, etc?
Any reason for not going with AMD? Identical performance for much less.
Also, the ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1 TB model is known to match and sometimes beat the 970 evo in read/writes and be $100 cheaper.
Do you plan on overclocking? If not, the stock air cooler is sufficient. Also, I’d look into a 7200rpm hdd, a better psu, and you can get m.2s with more storage for the same price from other companies.
What’s your budget?
Better storage option:
PCPartPicker Part List
For a build your already spending over 1k, yes. Just make sure its an actual nvme drive and not a sata drive in m.2 format
Supposedly its the same card minus the ray tracing. However nothing is 100% official from nvidia.
If you don't plan on doing a lot of overclocking, the current cpu cooler will do just fine. If you do want to do a decent amount of overclocking, either a beefier air cooler or aio would be recommended.
It’s not necessarily a matter of vram on the card. The 1060 will do fine with KSS vanilla. If you start adding a whole bunch of mods that effect graphics, it’s hard to say what will be enough.
I also read this. I picked up a gigabyte xtreme for my 9900k. More overkill than what I would recommend, but I’m doing an over the top custom loop build.
There’s no current time as far as I know. They were inticipated to be released around when the 2060 was coming out.
You need a motherboard with solid VRM.
Under ideal conditions, I would say the 360mm radiator would be better for overclocking the 9900k to its max potential with better thermals. That said, you may run into a power delivery limit before you run into a thermal limit. If you don’t plan on doing extreme overclocking, you can get by with the 240mm radiator.
I never said they weren’t. I was giving information on what the OP wanted to look for when shopping for fans.
The 2070 does not have enough performance under the hood to run ray tracing at a high enough FPS to be usable. Even the 2080 ti struggled with it before they did optimizations to the driver and BF5 after launch.
The 9600k will have good single threaded performance. If your interested, with a better cpu cooler, you can get some pretty good overcloking results from that chip as well to further increase the single threaded performance. The 1060 while a good card, may struggle with lots of graphic enhancement mods especially anything above 1080p.
You can, but fans usually have 2 main purposes, radiator or case fans. You want to make sure you get the right type for the right apppication of optimal cooling. Also, Corsair rgb is proprietary. You can only control Corsair fans with their software and there software only works with Corsair products. Unless you want more than 1 software for rgb, you have to stay in the ecosystem.
If you want something that’s going to sync with the Corsair software, you have to get Corsair fans. For radiators, you want “Static Pressure” fans often abbreviated SP. for case fans, you want “High Airflow” fans often abbriated AF. AF fans move a lot of air quickly but don’t have a lot of pressure behind them. SP fans push the air with far more pressure making them good for pushing air through tight radiator fins.
As for the header on your mobo, rgb headers are usually either 5v (3 pins) or 12v (4 pins). You’ll need to see what the requirement is for the fans you get.
I don’t know the first thing about graphic design, but Ryzen is a great chip for gaming and multithreaded applications. The 1060 is a good card for high settings/FPS in 1080p.
Do some research into AMD Ryzen cpus. Best value you can get for streaming and gaming.