Almost certainly not. I have a Samsung 970 Pro and some Crucial MX500's, the latter being SATA drives, and I can't tell the difference most of the time. The workloads that do show off the 970 Pro are heavy-duty database analytics and OLTP loads, not everyday stuff.
I agree with starting with the 2600, but I'd get a somewhat better motherboard, and save in a couple other places:
PCPartPicker Part List
If you don't mind the funky colors, take a look at the DIYPC F2 case, it's not much for cable management but has very decent airflow (and 2 included fans) for a $35-ish case.
You might want to verify that you aren't running short of memory, although I'd expect 16 GB to be enough. Aside from that, you're probably being limited by 4 cores / 4 threads. Unfortunately, anything newer is going to require a motherboard change, although you can keep your current memory.
I'd probably look to an 8 core / 16 thread setup, and right now I suspect that a Ryzen 3700X with an X570 mobo is the cheapest way to do that. DDR4-2666 is slightly on the slow side for Ryzen, but it's not dire and unless money isn't an issue, I'd keep what you have now.
What are you looking to improve? Just looking at the list I'd say the weakest link is the GPU, unless you're using a slow refresh monitor (what's your monitor). If you're currently CPU bound doing whatever you use the computer for, you'd instead want to upgrade the BIOS on your motherboard and upgrade to a Ryzen 3000 CPU.
Is this mostly a gaming machine, or is it used for other purposes? Gaming at what resolution, what sort of games, what fps target?
Your list is private...
The quad core might be an issue in a few games but all in all the list ought to be a competent gamer. I don't know that I would spend money on the Samsung name for the SSD, a BX500 for $70 less will work just as well for gaming purposes.
Tough question. Snap reaction: either the Quartetto Italiano version of Beethoven's Quartet #14 in A minor, or Glass Hammer's "three cheers for the broken-hearted".
but you aren't teed off about spending time on him, nope not at all, I can tell.
Reseat the PSU to motherboard cables, and reseat all the RAM sticks. Beyond that, yes, look up what the flashing light means.
I'm tempted to answer "smack yourself upside the head for working inside a powered-up computer", but I understand that's not a constructive response...
How old is that installation? Yes, you could just replace the fan, but if the CPU cooler has been mounted for more than a couple years, the thermal paste is likely dried out. Your CPU will thank you if you re-paste it, even if you reuse the cooler and just go with a new fan.
You can get a simple PCIe to m.2 NVMe adapter; this one is the first one I turned up with a simple google search. Yes, it's x4, but you can install it into an x16 slot and it should work just fine. There's basically no logic on these NVMe m.2 to PCIe adapters, it's just a re-routing of the signals from a PCIe socket to an m.2 socket.
The only limitation I can think of is that the motherboard might not know how to boot from it. If the mobo can boot from ordinary NVMe SSD's then it should boot from one in an adapter.
Edit: I installed a Toshiba NVMe m.2 into a 2009 Mac Pro (PCIe v2) using an adaptor like the one I listed, and it worked just fine. It's not rocket science. :-)
Gamersnexus did a performance study on Ryzen 3000 ram recently. The way I read the results is that yes, RAM can matter, but no, it doesn't matter much. If you are working to squeeze out every drop, read the article and get 3600CL16 sticks (or 3866 with manual timings, if you're really into it). Otherwise, find a nice set of 320CL16, or 3600CL18 or CL19 if the price works, drop them in and don't worry about it.
Ryzen 3000 appears to be substantially less finicky about memory brands and speeds than the first two generations. First gen Ryzen in the first gen motherboards, with early BIOSes, was a lot touchier about brands and speeds.
If you get c16 for a minimal price difference I'd go for it. Otherwise, don't worry about it. You are really talking about fractions of a percentage point performance, for most use cases, and it will cost you more to fuss over it than to just buy the C18.
You have to fill the 660p up pretty full to see any effect. I don't recommend filling any SSD up past 80 or 90% full. I have a 660p that's about 2/3 full, doing database work, and I see no degradation, so I disagree with your statement about it only being good for a boot drive.
There's nothing wrong with your list, feel free to stick with it. The games you list are pretty well optimized, though, and you can save a bit if you want to:
If you really need something luggable, you'll probably want to go mini ITX. The mATX cases I've seen aren't really all that small; they tend to be chunky even if less high than the usual ATX mid tower.
It does, but only a percentage point or two. I suggested the 9400F and B365 motherboard, which doesn't support RAM or CPU overclocking. That combo should get 60 fps easily.
In that case:
The key thing about gaming is refresh rate / frame rate. Is your friend going to spend $$$ on an over-60 Hz refresh rate 4k monitor?
Regardless, choose the CPU to deliver frames to the GPU for rendering at the desired frame rate. You could get 60+ fps out of a Ryzen 1600; if you need more, the 9700K is a good choice.
What's the build for? If gaming, you probably want a faster monitor than the 60 Hz one listed. If productivity or content creation, the 2080 CPU might be more than you need.
I have a BenQ BL3200PT, which is older and may not be readily available. I see a fair number of 30+ inch 1440p monitors listed by pcpartpicker, if you want good color rendition how about an IPS panel like the Acer ET322QU.
It all looks reasonable. The 3700X isn't a very hot CPU, so if you want to avoid any RAM interference concerns, you could switch to a Scythe Mugen 5 cooler. The NH-D14 will probably be just fine with 2 sticks installed.
If it's not something easy like a mount screw being loose, I'd just replace the fan.
Are you reading or writing lots of large (gigabyte) files sequentially? (think game-scene loading, or editing large photos / videos)
Are you writing at least 50 GB of data a day, on average?
If you answered no to both questions, get the cheapest name-brand SSD and be happy. SSD's have improved to the point where for most purposes they are a commodity. For a very few kinds of work, you can subjectively tell the difference between a value-grade SATA SSD and a top of the line NVMe unit, but most of the time they perform just about the same, subjectively.
Gamersnexus did a piece on Ryzen 3000 memory speeds. You can read their results a couple different ways, one being that once you get up to about 3200CL16 it doesn't really matter much, and another being that 3600CL16 gives you fractionally better performance without getting into manual fiddling of the various clock speeds and timings.
Plug in all of one 4+4 cable and half of the other 4+4, the other half can dangle. Or, just use one cable; no desktop CPU uses more power than a single 8-pin (=4+4 pin) EPS connector can deliver.
I'd be tempted to unplug the apevia fans just to make sure that they are really the cause. Then if possible plug them back in one at a time. How are they set up? If intakes and exhausts are very unbalanced, they may be flowing more intake than the exhaust can handle (or vice versa), such that the hissing is actually airflow through various case openings. If that's what is happening, you can either rebalance the fan directions, or just live with it as it's not necessarily bad.
If you are doing a lot of text work, consider a 1440p monitor at 30 to 32 inches. At 27 inches, the 2560x1440 pixel is pretty small, which generally translates to smaller text and graphic elements (icons and such). If you have good eyes that might not matter; for those of us with older eyes it's a non-starter.
When you get to about 32 inches, the 2560x1440 pixel is just about the same size as a 24 inch 1920x1080 pixel. So everything is roughly the same apparent size but you get 1/3 more screen space.
I went from a 24 inch 1920x1200 (16:10) monitor to a 32 inch 2560x1440p monitor, and I wouldn't go back. I'd prefer a 2560x1600 monitor but the missing vertical space isn't all that important for me, and 16:10 panels are getting really hard to find.
Ok, but are the case fans running faster when you start that app? what's different that causes the noise? I've never heard a fan make a hissing sound...
You mention the FIOS box, are you talking about the verizon-supplied router (do they still do Actiontec?), or the ONT (optical network terminal)?
A hissing noise? Are they spinning faster when you open that app?
Nice. For the memory: go into the BIOS and enable XMP, that should unlock the higher memory speeds.
A little newer, a bit more robust. It's a better choice for the higher power CPU's. For a Ryzen 2600, it's perfectly fine, maybe a bit more than the CPU itself needs, but a good choice overall.
Places on the motherboard where you can plug in a case fan. That way, the BIOS can be set up to control the fan speed according to various temperatures. The alternatives are: plug the fan directly into the power supply (runs at full speed, no control), or using a fan hub / controller which is a separate board which plugs into a mobo fan header and then controls multiple fans.
A fan header has a maximum rated output power, and it's usually enough to run two case fans using a splitter cable. If not, though, you either need multiple fan headers, or some sort of hub / controller, assuming you don't want to just blast the fans on full all the time.
You might want to check the number and kind of USB ports and chassis fan headers, as well. The DS3H is pretty minimal, which is fine if that's all you need. For just a little bit more there are other B450M's which have a little more in the way of fan headers and other ports.
For what it's worth (not much, sample of 1), I've had no problems with an asrock B450M Pro4 and it's only a little more than the DS3H. MSI has a couple lower end B450's too.
Add Crucial P1 to the list.
Just get 3200CL16 or 3600CL19, whichever you can get a better deal on. If you can find memory with lower CAS at those speeds, fine, but I wouldn't spend a lot of money on it. There's a lot of FUD left over from the initial Ryzen release, which did have a lot of compatibility issues at first. The Ryzen 3000 memory controller is considerably better.
The cheaper one.
Actually to me it sounds like a good move-it-now price. I’m guessing the seller is more interested in a quick sale than in finding another $25; I’ve been there. If it looks physically ok, it’s probably fine.
For learning, I think I’d stick to a single storage drive. A 1TB intel 660p is less than the two drives you’ve listed, and really for learning a single inexpensive 250GB drive is plenty.
You could make do with 8 GB memory, although it doesn’t save much.
You could learn on a craigslist junk PC, but this list gives you a useful pc going forward.
Ah. Disconnect the front fan. I’m pretty sure that the molex is for a direct full speed power connection to the PSU. You don’t want that. You want a splitter Y cable with the single end into the motherboard and the double ends to the fans.
I’m not sure about the three pin female socket you describe.
You can sell the 1200 without taking too great a loss, but certainly finding a local shop would be better.
If I were running a small computer shop I'd definitely have a 1200 and GT 710 or similar on hand for BIOS updates. Charge $10 per update and it would have likely paid for itself within a month if not less.
OP only needs to update enough to support the 2200G. Your point should be noted by anyone planning to update to Ryzen 3000 support, though.
Normally I’d point to the motherboard, but getting two doa’s in a row would be seriously bad luck. Next best candidate is the PSU.
That’s for the 200GE. An older Bristol Ridge CPU would work.
Intel has had several generations to fine tune their memory controller, so unless you’re trying to push up into the 4000 MT/s range you shouldn’t have a problem.
It would probably depend on the manufacture date. My guess is that most new-in-box Tomahawk's won't support a 3rd gen without an update, but that is a guess.
Make sure the memory is in the correct slots, typically a2 and b2. Try reducing the xmp clock speed manually. See if the motherboard has a newer BIOS available. A 2700X shouldn't have any trouble getting properly rated 2x8 sticks up to 3000 MT/s.
I would not expect any problems.
That is incorrect. For instance, the Sapphire RX 570 Pulse can drive four displays.