I have a 4770k in my tower and it's a beast. Stably (like, prime number crunching stable) I have it OC'd to 4.3 GHz under an H100i, but for playing games and anything else, I can crank it up to 4.6 GHz no problem, and still be in the mid 60s on temps. It's clearly the better chip; is it $70 better? Maybe not, but you also have to keep in mind that the Z87 platform is more feature-rich than the 88FX platform (or whatever AMD chipsets are called)
I should mention that I also bought a backplate for this card, which will obviously be coming with it.
The Hero does not come with wifi standard. If you want wifi, you'll have to buy a PCIe adapter.
There are already some benchmarks released of the upcoming 750 Ti which is based on the Maxwell architecture, and it has a 20% improvement over the 650 Ti preliminarily. If that trend continues, the high end cards will also be a significant step up. Again, though, we're looking at probably a ~June release on the Maxwell cards.
The point is that the lower end Maxwell cards, i.e. the 750 Ti are built on the 28nm process. The higher end Maxwell cards will be built on the 20nm process, but the process for fabrication at that size is still being finalized by TSMC. So Nvidia can't put out high end Maxwell cards until the middle of 2014. The 750 Ti, since it's only 28nm, can be released right now, and occupy the lower portion of the 700 range, and I expect that the 750 Ti will be a good deal quicker than the 650 Ti Boost.
The big benefit we'll see with Maxwell is that it'll allow the CPU and GPU to share memory, i.e. the CPU will be able to directly access the GPU's VRAM, and vice versa, along with standard improvements in speed and power consumption (due to the small fab process, partially).
In a word - no. adding another 760 raises your max usage to 523W. An SSD uses little to no power (literally a few watts, max). OC'd your CPU may add another 20-40W to your max power draw. That would put your max at or above 550W. Now, that being said, it is almost impossible to draw your maximum rated power. But to be safe, you'd want to get something a little beefier. The 650W version of that PSU is only $15 cheaper, so I would recommend at least that. I would stick with SeaSonic over Corsair - they make awesome PSUs.
Set your voltage to Override and re-run Prime95 to get a more accurate reading of your temps. Loading the AVX instructions from Prime95 overrides any max voltage setting that you have. From what I saw when overclocking my own system, running Prime95 with the default/Adaptive voltage setting would add at least .05 volts on top of the max voltage I set. For example with my overclock set to 1.25V, I would get voltage readings of 1.31~1.32. So when you're overclocking, make sure you're running stability tests with the voltage set to override. When you have a stable OC, set it back to Adaptive. I suspect your temps will be much lower. Also, the fact that it peaks at 60C at that voltage bodes well for overclocking. I mean, I have a 4770k under an H100i(mounted in the front, so I understand what you're saying about compatibility), and under IBT I hit the mid 90s, clocked at 4.6GHz w/ 1.265V. Good luck!
Also, I'm happy to see this, because I have a Define R4 and want to do a full loop in the future. Glad to know that it can in fact be done!
Well just to be clear, but all of the Haswell series are the same socket. It also doesn't matter which chipset he gets if he wants to upgrade. The only limitation would be overclocking - the only thing you need to be able to overclock is the Z87 chipset, though all of the chipsets will allow you to put a 4770k in it (he just won't be able to overclock it with the other chipsets).
^ This. It seems that you (the submitter) are a little confused - when you install your graphics card, you will be plugging your monitors directly into it. Your graphics card does have an HDMI port, as well as 2 DVI and 1 DP ports. Therefore, you'll just plug your monitor into the HDMI port on your GPU, not on your motherboard.
The higher end 800 series card won't be released until Q3 of 2014 at the earliest, since they need to wait on TSMC's 20nm process. The lower end ones might be released earlier since they only use the 28nm process. Soo if you want a card now, buy now. You can always buy an EVGA card, and if the new cards come out within 90 days, you can step up for only the difference in price.
Well the 760 is more on the level of the 270/270x, which is a substantial upgrade. Great card though, I had one for a while. If you're looking for something cheaper, the 650 Ti boost is on the level of the 7850.
Or he just lives in the middle of Alaska? Polar vortex, great for CPU temps.
Yeah, as a rule I would avoid Rosewill... though their cases certainly are cheap. It looks like there's little to no cable management options in that case, so I certainly won't fault you for that. That's a nice little build though. If you're looking to upgrade your GPU in the near future, it would probably make sense to go the Nvidia route, what with the price inflation happening right now and such.
You might want to do that sooner rather than later, because people will definitely downvote you for having no internal pics, just FYI. Looks solid to me though! Have fun with it.
I just want to point out that the 120 GB EVO would last about 8 years if you're writing 50 GiB/day. Personally, I own two 120 GB EVOs (one in my desktop, one in my laptop), and they're awesome drives. I haven't even written a full TB to my desktop one, so really I wouldn't worry about the longevity of this particular SSD.
I also haven't spent much time looking at graphics in my BIOS, but in Windows install the AMD drivers or look in your hardware settings and see if it's recognized (or install something like GPU-Z).
Well try putting it in a different slot and see if it shows up. Also make sure it's fully seated. You may just have a fried PCIe slot.
Okay, well I'm assuming you have it plugged into one of the PCIe slots on your motherboard... have you installed the latest AMD drivers? You can also try putting it into a different PCIe slot and see if it shows up.
Looks pretty solid to me. Depending on your graphics card, you can pick up a Korean 2k monitor for around $350 if that's something you're interested in.
Meaning that your computer doesn't recognize your graphics card? Is your monitor plugged into your graphics card? I.e. it should not be plugged into the ports coming off your motherboard, but rather the ones hanging off of your GPU.
4 cores. Having 2 threads per a core means that the processor can make use of free time. For instance, if one thread has to pull something from main memory, it has to wait for a long time (in computing time, anyways), leaving the other thread free to perform other actions. It's basically using the resources as efficiently as possible, which is great. But 4 cores is still better because they don't have to wait on one another, i.e. they act completely independently.
It's a solid deal, and it's also not uncommon to see an SLI setup with one reference cooler and one open-air cooler (the reference cooler being on the bottom) so that one isn't feeding hot air to the other.
I would run them from wholly different sockets (i.e. different pairs).
Well the 16:10 aspect ratio demands a premium since it's not as widely available... still very pricey.
Erm... 2.0. If it's plugged into a 2.0 port, then nothing else matters.
8(.1)! For sure. I like it because it's a more responsive interface (lighter on hardware) than 7. I'm also really used to Linux, where you hit the Windows key and type the name of your program to launch it, so I do not miss the Start menu AT ALL. In fact a find navigating Windows 8 much faster 9 times out of 10, since I like to search for things, and Windows 8's search feature is super quick.
If you want a portable storage solution for your OS, you can always look up high speed USB 3.0 thumb drives (i.e. http://poweredbymushkin.com/index.php/component/djcatalog2/item?id=751:ventura-ultra-120gb-flash-drive&cid=33:ventura-ultra)
The performance of this drive in particular is very good, and could offer you the ability to switch between computers easily, is that's something you want.
Well your BIOS. BIOS/UEFI readings are generally higher than those measure on the desktop by software. I would say that's a pretty warm, especially for where you live. You might want to try re-mounting the cooler or making sure the screws are nice and tight.
Is that in your UEFI or when you're on the desktop? Also, what's the temperature where you live?
Agreeing with this. The 8320 is much cheaper than the 8350 due to its lower clock, but you can always overclock to make up the difference.
Many people don't even think about the Xeon line. That being said, a lot of people on these forums are power-users and tinkerers, so the ability to overclock on the 4770k is definitely a huge reason to get the 4770k over the equivalent Xeon class CPU.
Yes, you can. The 220 is built with future expansion in mind (i.e. adding a GPU to the loop), so you can definitely change the tubes if you want to.
Ah I feel that.
I would also check out the MSI MPower. It's around $190, and has built in WiFi. I own one and love it. The Formula is really for it you want to water cool your VRMs easily.
Are you watching your temps? It's always possible the card is overheating and throttling down.
For overclocking specifically? Then you might want to check out the MSI MPower. All boards will handle the xfire setup no problem. The MPower is built with overclocking in mind though, and for that reason it has 16-phase power delivery, compared to the 8 on the ROG Hero. Ideally this provides "cleaner" power to the CPU, and allows for higher stable overclocks, though it should be noted that the actually amount of stability that's added with 16 phases versus 8 is something that's contested. All I know is that I have an MPower, love it, and currently have a 4770k in it clocked at 4.6 GHz.
Well he doesn't have a motherboard... so it's all good.
Well I'll just say that $200 is an ambitious budget for a full loop with two GPUs... a full cover block is at least $100 for a GPU, depending on the brand you're going with. The cheapest full cover water block from EKWB is this one - http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-titan-series/ek-fc670-gtx.html (the 670 blocks fit the 760s as well).
So with a pump, reservoir, fittings, CPU block, and tubing, your final cost will be much higher than $200. The only way you might be able to get in under $200 is if you buy the NZXT Kraken G10 and have AIO coolers on all your components. Both the brackets would be $60, leaving $140 for the three other coolers (maybe 3 Corsair H55's? - http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-cpu-cooler-h55). That's the only way I could see a full water cooled system at under $200, sorry :/
The 770 is a faster card. While they have the same number of CUDA cores, the base clocks on the 770 are higher, and the memory is clocked at 7 GHz vs. 6GHz on the 680. I would go for the 770.
Well, first off, the MSI cooler will be more effective, unless you're comparing it to the EVGA ACX model, like this one - http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-02gp42765kr
Personally, I like the ACX aesthetics better, and EVGA's Costumer Service has a reputation for being top-notch (and the Step-Up program is sick), so my choice would be EVGA.
I would agree with this. The 120GB also gives you a little extra space to store a game or two. I have a 120GB EVO, and I store all my apps and OS on it easily (with around 70GB left). In addition, I can hold BF4 on it, which I play a lot of, and it makes the game load so much faster, which is awesome on multiplayer when you're one of the first people on the map.
Pretty quiet. It'll get kinda loud if you crank it up to 100%, but I have mine max out around 80 and I rarely notice it.
You're fine. That just means that your PSU has 2 12V rails (this is significant to list because most people prefer single rails), and each one will deliver 24W, for 48W total.
Well, I still have both monitors. I never noticed anything, but I would be happy to pull up a game on both the 1080p and 1200p and compare the two. I didn't notice any difference when I transitioned, but maybe I just wasn't paying attention to it closely enough.
Most games you can select 1080p in the video settings and it'll just letterbox. That being said, you won't need to. I played to 1200p for a while (I got a new IPS monitor that's 1080 and I play on that now) and you don't lose any FOV. 1200p only gives you more space on the top an bottom, and it doesn't cut anything off the side.
Personally, with all that GPU power, I would say step up to the 4770k. The 4670k will be fine, yes, but with those cards in SLI you want to make sure you aren't bottlenecking them. And YES, newer games utilize the extra threads (hello, BF4), so that would be my suggestion for this setup.
This mouse is exactly the same as this one - http://pcpartpicker.com/part/perixx-mouse-11075
It's just a different brand. I own the Perixx branded one, and I absolutely love it. It's a great price, and has tons of features. And the drivers weren't in Chinese (it allows you to program all the buttons on the mouse).
To answer your GPU questions -
Crysis 3 at 2k resolution - http://anandtech.com/bench/GPU14/814 (I know you said 1080p, but they don't bench Crysis at 1080p maxed out, so I thought I'd step up the res to give you a better idea of what it would be maxed out at 1080p, probably a little faster than this is my guess)
Metro LL @ 1080p - http://anandtech.com/bench/GPU14/852
And for fun, BF3 @ 4k, Ultra and MSAA x4 - http://anandtech.com/bench/GPU14/893
You'll notice that the 780 is also in all these benchmarks, so you can make the comparison pretty easily and decide what's best for you! Both cards are great.
Disregarding possible damage that could of happened to the stick, here is why you don't really want to have a RAM setup like that.
You haven't mentioned anything about the speeds or timings of the RAM, but I'll assume that the older RAM is slower in some fashion (maybe looser timings, or running at 1333 MHz). You generally don't want to mix-and-match RAM like that, as it can lead to compatibility issues.
Even if the sticks are the same speeds and timings, you're in a weird spot. Assuming you're not using an LGA 2011 CPU, your processor will be limited to single or dual channel memory. Essentially, this is like RAID0 for RAM - dual channel allows your processor to pull from two sticks of RAM at a time instead of just one (tri and quad channel are enabled on the LGA 2011 platform, and perform just like they sound). In this case you'll have 4GB in one channel, and 8GB in another channel. Again, this is not recommended (though still doable). It's best to have each channel have the same amount of memory in it, whether that's 1GB, or 8GB. Why? Well, essentially 8GB of your RAM will end up running in dual channel mode, and the rest will run in single channel mode.
Now, with regards to any possible damage to the stick, if it is broken, and you use it in your computer, I could say that it's possible, though not likely, that the impaired circuitry could fry one of your memory slots, in which case you'll be left with three slots.
Personally, I would recommend against using it. If you have a really cheap-o computer lying around, stick it in there and see if it works, then decide if you want to put it in your new computer. I personally would just recommend saving up for a second 8GB set to add later down the road if you really want the extra RAM.
Sorry, I know this is a really long post, but I hope it helps!