1080p or 1440p that is what matters.
So you need a monitor and windows 10 included?
If not then what monitor do you have that is what matters when picking a video card.
More cores dont mean better, faster cores are the main thing most increases from more cores are only for the first 4 cores.
The 8700 will work fine and 16gb of memory is fine, however I would rethink the M.2 drive it can really help.
Still depends on the monitor resolution and refresh rate.
Depends if it's for pure gaming, or streaming game play, and the monitor your using to really get the best performance for the money.
Dual channel is in the 5% area faster so the difference would be made up using the 3000mhz memory over the 2400 and still have one open slot on the board to add 8gb more in the future.
This is a revised build from the 2nd guys.
The board only has 2 memory slots so buy a faster single stick of memory.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
That board might not work with the processors without a BIOS update.
For the keyboard and mouse I just picked 2 I like Logitech products you could just buy a 20 buck set or spend a bunch more if you wish for a mechanical keyboard it all depends on what you like. I seen no gaming listed for what your doing so you really don't need gaming Keyboards or Mouse.
I have had bad experiences with Asus as a company. Awesome BIOS is usually what their calling the AI tweaker not awesome to me just a program and a bunch of times buggy. You can almost always buy a higher quality motherboard (made of higher quality parts) for the same price.
I do not buy, build with, and try to talk customers out of using their products. Some are good and some are not people just keep buying them because of their one time good name.
Any good board will have all the BIOS settings that you need. Really all you need is Overclocking for the CPU (always done best with BIOS settings not just hitting a button for auto overclock) memory XMP settings and manual settings to adjust when needed or overclocking, boot order and Raid for the drives if you need that.
If I was forced to use a ASUS board I would get this one .
First thing would be a QUITE case. Overkill on the CPU cooler at stock speeds and the power supply both should keep the noise down.
Widescreen IPS monitor.
You can add more drives as needed the 1TB SSD and 6TB WD Black drive is a good start.
If you need a sound card depends on what your using on the music side.
Massive overkill on the power supply.
It's also time to move on to Windows 10. 2020 ends the Windows 7 support by Microcrooks.
Most people no longer buy DVD drives it's like buying a cassette tape.
If your looking for a heavy overclock do not buy this board it has a very bad power phase they call it a 4+3 but it's actually 4+2 since 2 are shared.
MSI - Z370 GAMING PLUS
i5 8400, 16GB of memory, GTX 1060, 240GB SSD, Small form factor case.
Your better of buying a sealed cooler like a H100 no maintenance. Your going to have to drain, flush, and refill that about 2 times a year.
If your going for a fairly heavy overclock do not buy that MSI motherboard it has a very poor power delivery.
A much better build for right at 1200 bucks.
I would not buy less since their already talking about future games using more than 16GB.
That is a cheap case but will work just don't expect cable management to be easy.
Exceptionally is going to cost you, their already talking about some of the newer games coming out in the future being able to use over 16GB of memory.
The least I would build.
Some boards can use older versions but that one listed just says 10.
When you switch boards you need to do a fresh install anyhow.
Your going to need windows 10 with that and do a fresh install of everything.
For just the PC this is a bit over but a solid gaming PC.
Ya I dislike the airflow on those cases. I perfer open fronts as oposed to a top and bottom vent.
I see no reason to go past this. In a gaming PC you get to a point where you can spend a bunch more money for little to no performance increase.
Depends on what all the 1500 bucks needs to include and if your going to be streaming gameplay or not.
Probably not going to fit the specks on the case say CPU cooler 160mm.
The D14 should barely fit if he uses the memory I sugested or he could go with water a H100 0r 110 are reasonable. .
Looks good to me but you need a CPU cooler and buy the memory in a 2X8gb set not 4x4 it's easier on the memory controller.
With the dirrerence in the memory price you can about change the SSD to 1tb.
It's not worth the trouble.
Your going to need legitimate windows. The first one that has problems and is sent back to you will eat up all your profits.
Really none of that is true. The case works fine, the i5 8400 is a very good gaming processor, no update is needed for the processor it works with the boards first BIOS version 022.
The 8400 is a faster processor till you use past 6 cores.
Actually you can get a fairly good PC for gaming with what you have.
The 2400G processor is about the best your going to get in that price range.
Don't take this the wrong way but for a gaming PC I beat your performance and price by over 1K and included a 1TB SSD for games, the power line kit is much better than WIFI. Your even paying 80 bucks for a 2.0 channel headset?
The only thing we have to go by is a Gaming PC since that is all you said!
For pure gaming the i5 8600K.
-1 for the processor, -2 for the M.2 drive since you can buy 2X the SSD space in SATA form, -4 for the monitor Freesync and 240hz? -1 more for the case really dislike the front airflow opening and having the mount the rad in the front blowing warm air into the case.
Depends on what all your using the PC for but for pure gaming I would get the i5 8600K processor.
The Prime has a much better power phase for overclocking the H is rather low end and really overpriced for what you get. (100% no reason to spend the money or the Crosshair model the Prime A will work just fine). On a side not I would never use gimmick software to overclock a processor.
No it is not! Only designed for 65 watt processors. Those processors are rated for 65 watts but run on the hot side so not what I would use the Cryorig H7 is a very good cooler for the 8700 (non-K) processor and only 145mm tall so fits in most cases and has 0 memory interference. It would even work for the K processor with a mild overclock. It's rated for 150 watts.
500 watt power supply
That is not enough information depends on the brand and model.
For the processor really depends on the games and the monitor resolution and refresh rate.
A 2070 might be a better buy to match your parts.
Well worth the extra money for overclocking. Their low priced then their just cheap low quality, I would not buy cheap low quality for overclocking.
That is a lot of cooling for a poor 4+3 phase motherboard. They say it is actually a 4+2 since 2 are shared with one.
I would leave the SSD off, who cares if it takes longer to boot it's not going to help your gaming performance and switch to the 4 core Intel.
Looks good to me I would keep that before changing to 000000000000's build.
Depends mostly on the game the Intel will give you better pure gaming performance and the AMD will help with Streaming if the game can use a lot of cores.
Most of the time when people say however streaming is not out of the question. it means their not going to be doing much if any of it.
That SSD is cheap but has a high failure rate.
For a 1440p monitor get a 27 inch at the least.
The Newegg reviews show a 25% failure on the motherboard. It also has a very poor power delivery looks like 4+2 You can buy a much better board for the same price.
For your M.2 drive that is just the form factor it's the same speed as a SATA SSD.
Running benchmarks, using it as a scratch drive, or doing a bunch of file transfers is the only time you will notice the difference in speed, other than that it will give you a whopping 0.5 to 1 second quicker boot time. Your money I could care less just know what your getting.
First the game 144 FPS could be done but you will need to turn the settings down, the game is poorly optimized.
That case has fairly poor and restricted airflow for a high end build. I would go for a bit bigger micro atx case instead.
For the price of that M.2 drive you can buy a SATA 1TB SATA SSD for right at the same price for gaming the m.2 drive is not really going to help.
For the processor if your not going to be streaming gameplay you will get better performance out of the i5 8600K processors until you get past using 6 cores. This is because of the faster core speed even if your not going to be overclocking now it leaves the option open in the future.
Just a few things their no reason to buy a Z370 board for that processor.
With a few minor changes you can upgrade to 16GB of memory for right at the same price.
For the SSD that M.2 drive has like 21% bad reviews on newegg just get a good SATA SSD. From a early death to starting to run very slow.
Build the PC just have the SSD installed not the regular HDD. Then windows can only install their after it's up and running install the other drive and format it and assign it a drive letter then your done.
You will need to buy 1 extra SATA cable.
You can use 2 headers just get spliters that run 3 fans.
Unless your buying some high power draw fans most use in the 0.2 /0.3 amp area and most fan headers can handle at least 1 amp.
We almost agree. I would just make a couple changes and get a 1440p monitor just 60 HZ but no big deal to most people I perfer a 27 inch 2K monitor.
First I would check your old PC how full is your hard drive? Over 85% or so is to full it needs extra space to function correctly.
1. Virus scan.
2. Download and run OCCT to stress and check the temp of the CPU.
3. Run a diagnostic tests on the hard drive avaliable at WD web site.
4 Run this to test your parts, keep in mind you will be compaired to people that are overclocking their parts.
5. I would do a fresh install of windows. (Back up and date you cant replace)
Post the results of each your PC could be easy to fix.
If you get it running good again it gives you the option of selling yours as a working PC or rebuilding. Selling yours would give you more money to build a new one with.
My first guess would be virus, overheating CPU or dying drive or board.
You don't have a processor listed but under load on just a 84 watt processor that cooler thermal throttled because of the very poor cooling of the cooler!!!!!!!
Now that we’ve moved the MasterAir G100M into our 84W Core i5-4690 testing rig, you’d think it might be able to keep things cool long enough to complete the test, right? Well guess again. Despite its 130W power dissipation rating, the G100M performed so poorly that the testing CPU reached its 100C thermal limit and throttled down to 3.1GHz in less than a minute.
In an effort to ensure that we didn’t make any mistakes during the installation, we uninstalled, reinstalled and retested the cooler two additional times. We even re-applied thermal paste and doublechecked all of the mounting hardware. Still, the results remained the same.