Oh. This changes everything (kind of)
Put instead windows 7 on your usb, assuming you can reuse the key.
Then (I think) as long as it's not an OEM key on your current pc you should be able to use it. Even if it's an OEM key, you might be able to still use it.
You may need to call MS and have them reset the key or something.
I've never had to do that before, so I'm not 100% sur e on any of this.
Then once you have the key activated you can upgrade to windows 10.
You shouldnt have to mess with your existing install.
Once again, I am not entirely sure on any of this. If anyone knows an easier way/has corrections PLEASE reply.
If you have to buy a special connector, dont bother.
Just put it on a flash drive and install off the flash drive once you put the new pc together.
I'd start fresh. Dont copy and os off an old pc directly
Go ahead an install windows 10, but I'd discourage doing anything else with drivers or anything.
Once your parts arrive, install the drivers in the new build from the online websites.
If you want, go ahead and put windows on a flash drive. Microsoft has a utility to do it really easily.
Either 850 evo, or the cheapest one you can find.
(Except the SSDNow 300 series. I've heard bad stuff about them swapping with inferior parts. In fact, before buying an ssd, check the reviews and make sure they haven't swapped parts since the reviews)
I don't see any reason why it wouldnt.
With skylake coming out and haswell refresh being out for a while, I can't recommend the same processor or mobo I used.
Tried to use the auto download. I was watching the size of the hidden file, and it just stopped halfway through.
Then I started trying to force the update with "wuauclt.exe /updatenow", where I've started getting various error messages.
I'm trying it again now as I'm writing this.
As of this post, I haven't even gotten my computer to show any signs of progress (restarts, Win 10 looking install menus, etc).
I'm thinking about just reinstalling to get windows 10 from the ISO.
This brings up something else: When you install Win 10 from an ISO on a thumbdrive, can you select some kind of "update" option instead of completely reinstalling?
EDIT: Update just failed. I got the "Check your PC, something needs your attention" message and I hit "check your PC" and it just brought me back to the "You're automatically set to install updates" and disappeared. Meh.
EDIT 2: Now I'm trying to use the media creation tool, and it gave me an option to directly upgrade the computer. Let's see if it works!
Well, if you haven't plugged in the power button and you are trying to turn on your pc with that button... That wouldn't really work, would it?
Look in you motherboard manual to plug in your front panel connectors
1) did you hit the on/off switch on the power supply
2) is the video card plugged in
3) does you power outlet have a switch in the off position/can you confirm the wall outlet works with a lamp or something
4) are your front panel connectors for sure plugged in right? Try bypassing the button by shorting them with a screwdriver
5) is you cpu cooler plugged into your motherboard
This is about all I can give you with the limited info I have been given.
2 ideas: not sure if either make sense/are what's wrong
Broken temp sensor
Cooler not installed correctly
Absolutely insane overclock/you mistyped a value in there
I have heard that 4 cards has little to no performance benefit (and in some cases less than 3 cards)
Also I'd (maybe, and this is a huge maybe) get a Titan X for the 12gb of vram. I'm thinking that 3-4 cards might be able to take advantage of 12gb vram.
Well, I'm not too educated on this, but my dad did have me build an audio PC for his studio.
Your build looks pretty close to the one I made him, but I gave him what appears to be a better quality sound card.
He mainly uses Audition and various older programs carried over from his old PC (like disk burners), and he uses a mac for Pro tools and Logic.
That all being said, he has never had issues with processing power on either his 2011 iMac or his PC, which have a sandy bridge and haswell i5's, respectively. (And he often runs multiple programs side by side on the same computer) but he's not one of those people with $50000 to blow on a setup or big name artists coming through his door either.
As far as monitors, I love my Acer H226HQLBid (basically, the cheapest IPS 1080p panel I could find - $120) They have a 23" version, too, and I believe Dell makes one that has high ratings.
I'd say something like this varies heavily from user to user. My dad also has a sound board, a pro tools interface, and various midi modules. It sounds like your brother is going to use very different programs, also.
As far as I can see, all you need is a screwdriver and a wrist strap.
For me, a wrist strap is optional. But for a higher budget build like yours, I'd get one.
To be honest, I've done two builds and I have no clue what any of those things in the kit are used for, with the exception of the wrist strap and the screwdriver.
As a person who has had budget IPS and TN panels side-by-side, there is a COMPLETE difference. To me, I find it hard to even look at the non-IPS panel, as it hurts my eyes. Then again, I am not really a gamer (yet at least) so it's somewhat irrelevant.
As far as a budget IPS monitor to look into, I have two Acer H226HQLBid monitors and love them. There is also a 23" version. You can usually pick up the 21.5" for $120 USD and the 23.8" for $140. These are going to have quite a bit of input lag, as any cheap IPS monitor would. 5ms iirc, not sure though.
I haven't really tried any good budget TN panels that I could recommend.
Good to know.
Unfortunately the guy didn't have the box and wasn't into sending me pictures :/
We had gone back and forth quite a few times, and he still hasn't sent me pictures.
The deal seemed to be sketchy, so I called it off.
Still, thank you for all the advice; I will continue looking for used cards.
Bought last Nov from Amazon
Doesn't have the box
Load temps 80c "doesn't thermal throttle"
Says he didn't use it for anything except gaming.
I'm still awaiting pictures.
Does this story seem to line up? Should I go for it?
I might also ask to test it real quick in his PC and maybe run a quick temp test.
I'll ask about mining and the temps.
I'll ask this. Thanks!
EDIT: Do I just have to look for a reference cooler? Or should I also be concerned if it's a reference PCB?
Ok. I will ask all of this.
Do you know by any chance how long the warranty is? I believe I saw somewhere that it said 1 year, but I would like to confirm it.
Agreed. Is suspicious.
Also, (most) legitimate websites don't have a huge countdown bar and (most) don't have 10 kinds of credit card logos.
Also (most) aren't based in Hong Kong.
My combo is MBAM free + Avast
Avast does have ads for you to upgrade, but they aren't too bad.
I've seen plenty of configs where a 3-way was used for additional spacing in a 2-way config for better airflow.
For whatever it's worth, I looked up the motherboard manual quickly.
I couldn't find any beep info strangely with my quick ctrl+f'ing. It's probably in there somewhere though.
Athlon = A-series without video.
If a GPU is not installed, you won't get video.
The Athlon processors don't have integrated graphics, even if your motherboard has a video port.
In order to get video, install a graphics card, plug in power, and plug the monitor into the graphics card.
This at least explains the black screen. The beeping might be something else though.
"The 280X is a Tahiti, while the 290X is a Hawaii, so they cannot be crossfired together." -rad666 from the second link
Although, why would you want to?
This is from back in the XP days.
All I can think of is that Windows isn't recognizing the drive due to the size of it.
Maybe look in disk manager (or whatever it's called)?
Or you might need to format it or something? Especially if it's a new drive or if it's formatted for a mac or something.
So let me get this straight:
-SSD Works no problem, no matter what power cord and what sata data spot you plug into.
-Seagate HDD does nothing, no matter what power/data combo you use (even the same combo used by the SSD)
-2 WD 2tb drives don't work either, no matter what power/data combo you use.
Did the SSD work?
Did the HDD work?
Try different sata ports?
Make sure power is working?
(Ex: switch the ssd and hard drive power and data cables. See if the ssd is still recognized and if the hard drive is recognized)
With the USB, in order to get front panel ports, you need a USB 2 to USB 3 header adapter. ($5USD)
I have a similar thing with my current machine (H81, no USB front), and I also have experience with an H97 build. The H97 build went so much more smoothly. It's one of those situations where you will end up spending more money for adapters, more USB3, etc. and might as well have just gotten the more expensive motherboard.
This build looks great, but don't cheap out on the motherboard like I did.
This is why I try to step in with the easy stupid fixes first xD
So happy you got everything working.
Going to be honest, I am not the best with troubleshooting, but I can think of the stupid stuff to try first and try to locate where the problem is.
Make sure your monitor is connected to your gpu, not the motherboard.
Make sure the monitor works with another computer
Try unplugging the gpu and using integrated graphics.
Hopefully this (might) give an idea of the cause of the problem.
Thanks so much!
Didn't see the EVGA ones for whatever reason.
So it would be a good idea to stay away from the HX850? Is it really worth the $27 difference?
I can wait then. I have school until then anyways, so it works out pretty well.
That's what I've been seeing generally from the little bit of research I've done on the matter. None seem at all certain, but all pretty much say by the end of the first half of the year, or sooner.
Ok. Thanks for your quick response!
Any idea on the 300 series rumored release date?
Running the same thing here. MBAM whenever I think I might have picked up something and Avast didn't catch anything, and Avast for real time stuff.
Depending on the cost difference, getting a blue and also removing an optical drive or something might give you enough for an SSD.
I would try to buy the ssd now.
Either way, blue should be fine.
If you already have an SSD in your system and have the extra budget, get the black. Spend money on other things first though, such as on a video card.
If it's between an SSD and upgrading to black, go for the SSD every time.
Technically, some motherboards have built in graphics, kind of. They always suck though.
But we're talking old stuff. Like ATI days old.
The Asus one recommended above looks great then.
Sorry I couldn't have been of more help!
$300 likely isn't enough for 1440p.
I'd personally get a really cheap 1080p monitor or maybe even two 1080p monitors.
I like the 21.5-22 in size but most seem to like the 23-24 in size.
I personally love IPS, as for me, refresh rate is much less important than the crispness of the picture.
Anything on this list should be pretty good: http://pcpartpicker.com/parts/monitor/#R=5,4&W=2200,2410&T=1,7&qq=1&p=1&r=192001200,192001080&sort=a11
I've never had an AOC monitor, but it seems to have decent reviews.
I can speak for the Acer monitor though that's third on the list and is a little bigger: I have the 21.5in version of it and love it.
Ok cool. I just figured an upgrade path/the ability in case you wanted to do some dual 1080p, a single 1440p, or maybe even a 4k monitor.
Overall it looks good though!
Looks really nice so far.
I'd swap out the Toshiba drive for something Seagate, WD, or Hitachi.
If your budget allows, look into a 980.
As for motherboards, one I found that looks nice is this: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asrock-motherboard-z97extreme4
Really anything from this list should be fine: http://pcpartpicker.com/parts/motherboard/#c=99&f=2&l=2&K=2,10&N=4,8&u=1&sort=a8&R=5,4&m=7,8,18,27
Unless you really want a Windows 8 feature, I'd just get 7 if you can get it legally free.
Please don't. It's called "technical preview" for a reason.
Get 8.1, unless you can get 7 free and not 8.1 free.
You can always use the disk to upgrade the OS... You don't have to necessarily reinstall.
It's in windows setup. Instead of hitting custom like normal, you hit upgrade.
I'd check out what Lenovo and Dell have to offer.
Assuming no overclocking, the build SHOULD be able to supply the required wattage. It's close, but the GPU shouldn't need more than about 300-350 watts. For the processor we'll say 100. That still leaves over 100 for everything else.
The 650 watt figure I believe is just what AMD says your power supply should be, assuming everything is balanced. That's not how much the GPU actually requires. AMD's figure is also to cover their butt if a customer decides to buy one of those cheap really weird uncertified power supplies.