Pretty bangin'. I like it!
I was just thinking, maybe installing VMWare deployed a driver package or something that resolved the issue...
That's always the most frustrating outcome - it's fixed but we don't know why. That said, at least it's fixed. :/
Have you tried running a live install of a linux distro? It would allow you to troubleshoot whether the issue is software or hardware in nature. If you can't connect with Linux, then you know it's likely a hardware issue.
Not the most elegant fix, & I wouldn't try that a second time if it kicks in again, but whatever works.
Like Derp88_, I'm curious if you made a bootable USB or if you copied the ISO to the USB without using Rufus or any other tools
You got me digging about it & the issues are apparently almost exclusively with overpower protection, which is reassuring. Even with 7 HDDs & an SSD, I won't be pulling more than 300W on this at highest load. Everything else I've seen about this series says its actual power delivery is solid, so I should be okay.
I already have the B3 550 in my NAS. It's been doing a fine job so far. But I'll keep that in mind.
Thanks for the clarification :) I'll double check with EVGA before pulling the trigger on a particular cable, I think.
You may need to connect the controller to a header on your motherboard. Take a look at that section of the manual. My board wasn't compatible with it so I had to buy a fan header y-splitter to run the front & back fans.
If it's anything like the big brother Enthoo Pro (my server is in one of them), that's the Fan Controller.
The good news is you have a 2x8 kit & odds are pretty good at least one of the 2 sticks is unaffected by the issue.
I would recommend popping out one stick, seeing if you still get the BSODs. If so, replace the remaining stick with the one you removed & test again. This won't definitively rule out the memory, but if the BSODs stop after this it'll give you confirmation of the problem & you can replace the bad module.
Then you're right, the issue is almost certainly hardware based.
I looked over the three BSOD errors you mentioned & the most obvious thing they all have in common is that they are memory related.
Do you have access to an alternate memory kit you could use to test? Also, as mentioned below, if you're overclocking the RAM, have you tried dialing back on the overclock/resetting memory settings to default?
Of the many fixes you mentioned, have you attempted a full format/reinstall of windows?
Let us know how it shakes out :)
Can you pull it off, check to make sure the pins are all clear & push it in with two thumbs, using your fingertips to have the back of the mobo (this helps mitigate flex)
Agree with Synchro.
I looked at the pins on the manual/mobo. In principle, the 3-hole plug for the power connector should go in on the top row of the front panel header, 2 pins in from the left.
Basically it should look like this
Where the top 3 brackets indicate where to plug the power switch & the bottom 2 where to plug the reset switch. Everything else is cosmetic (& you should be able to work out where it goes from the manual based on where the power & reset are plugged in).
Hope that helps!
Oh that's disappointing :( Let's see about getting you sorted out. The power lead that connects the case to the motherboard header is always a bit of a pain to set up. I recommend reviewing the motherboard manual to make sure that button is connected correctly.
I suggest looking up which key to press on boot to get into BIOS. Push it blind - it should output to the TV once it loads.
Wow! That's one heckuva a workload! 48GB will be one major upgrade :)
Feel free to disregard this if the answer is not one you wish to share, but I admit I'm very curious: what applications are you running that require 48GB of RAM?
Agreed with all of this.
If you provide a parts list the list could be better tailored to your needs.
worstcaster said it all
Oh cool! Good luck :) I've been really happy with my setup. Moving soon & it'll be connected by ethernet into my computers after that & it'll be running even better than the wifi setup we have right now.
You said you replaced the PSU - was it modular? If so, did you keep the same cables for both PSUs or did you swap them?
Have you inspected the board for any damaged capacitors/traces/evident corrosion?
I didn't mention the board model - A68N-5600
I’m using an embedded AMD motherboard I got on Newegg for CAD$75, plus 6GB of CAS9 DDR3 I had lying around. Storage is 3x 2 TB HDDs in RAID5 I got on Amazon (also about $75 each) & boot drive is a 60gb Silicon power SSD I picked up for $29.
The NAS is running Open Media Vault because I started out with only 4GB of RAM & it's much lighter on system resources than FreeNAS - it's actually really easy to use & has a bunch of really easy to use 3rd party plugins.
Have you tried clearing CMOS on your board? Your manual should show you how.
Found this, hope it helps https://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=10760.0
Sorry, I haven't been able to pull the photo because the networks I've been using are quite stingy on blocking access to sharing sites. I'll take a look on cellular a little later today.
What model motherboard do you have? Is there a parts list you could include? These will help in diagnosis
Settled on an Enthoo Pro. Excited to finish my upgrades
If you have another computer, plug it into one of those to test that it's still functional. If it works in another computer, there might be something wrong on the hardware/software level on your computer. If it fails in a different computer, then it's time to buy a new one, unfortunately.
Looks good, but swap out that SSD - cheap SSDs like that one will outperform mechanical drives, but not by much & the memory controller on them will die much sooner than you might want.
If you've backed up everything you need, I'd recommend formatting the old HDD to save yourself some minor trouble, but the short answer is it shouldn't be an issue. Plug in both, go into BIOS, make sure the SSD gets first priority for booting and you're off to the races.
I agree with both TheShadowGuy & Carrier_Taihou's recommendations.
Do you have another computer you can create a windows usb key with? It's not a great option, but maybe "windows repair" might be able to get you in there.
Quick question: are you running any kind of adapter between the motherboard & the monitor?
Marbleboot is likely correct
My understanding is your local microcentre can do it free/for a small fee.
If you've got doubts about the thermals, have spare thermal paste & you're careful, it's absolutely worthwhile to remove the cooler & check to make sure the paste has good coverage. That being said, if it behaves normally when you aren't doing 4K workloads, then this wouldn't be a particularly shocking result.
Fair. I was going on the "family member doesn't know how to fix it" part & assuming if they needed help with that, it's unlikely the OS is after-market. But you're right, I wasn't considering the history of the laptop - if it was purchased used or is a hand-me-down my assumption is useless.
So yeah, OP, Crazyfool has a point on this.
Encoding 4k video can be resource intensive, this seems like the software is maximizing its use of resources.
Given that it's a consumer laptop, this seems unlikely - OEMs generally don't ship Windows w/ gray market licenses.
When you get into BIOS, find the boot order selector & pick the HDD to boot from (you should have 2 Windows boot loaders in the list, sometimes you have the HDD/SSD model name/number also). Picking the HDD should solve the infinite boot loop. From there, you can rescue the data on the SSD, then delete/format the partition & then do a clean Windows install.
If BIOS isn't useful, then I recommend picking up a cheap 2.5in drive enclosure on Amazon or something & plugging the SSD into USB after windows is booted. From there the steps mentioned above should work, also.
You can't get into BIOS?
What software are you using to clone the drive?
Sounds like the SSD's copy of windows is bricked. Do a clean install on the SSD (after retrieving any necessary files) & you should be good to go.
You can get files off the SSD by installing it in your computer but telling BIOS to boot from the HDD anyway.