I might go with a bit faster memory; maybe 3400 Ghz even if an argument by performance-per-dollar math might not be clear-cut. That System would still price-out between $500 and $520, so not too much more
I just know if people look at these specs, that is the ONE issue people will nag about, "Oh, your RAM is slow for a Ryzen build..."
So, to AVOID that sort of discussion as people look at you system just spend the extra $50.
I'm jealous that you folks in Australia have this board already! I plan to build based on this board, but in a bigger case.
Thanks for the first hand account of the case. Your words mirror other 'first hand' accounts I have seen, so you are not alone. I hope the Cooler Master does the right thing and provides new top and front panels at no cost to at least those who ask.
Still a beautiful build and a nice system. If nothing else those big RGB fans looks spectacular up front...truly a striking build.
I like the video card brace. ;-)
Very nice. For a first build you did an exemplary job of styling and building.
Well, that sucks.
I want to at least see Sapphire's line up. Out all all the companies making AMD cards, I think they continue to have the better styled fan cowls.
Very nice. I think more and more cases will have to provide ways to attach vertical mounts.
The title "First Build and Hopefully the Last" made me laugh.
My guess is prices cards will become available and prices will drop when Ethereum value goes down a just a bit more. But that is what amounts to forecasting one commodity market to then deducing when another commodity market "pc parts" will trickle down...it is hard to say exact times.
I can tell you I have spent the last six weeks trying to buy a used GTX 1070. But every thing I bid for at a reasonable price is out bid to an unreasonable extent very quickly/ I'm not going to buy a 1070 someone bought six months ago for $265 for $380 used - just not going to happen. So I'm waiting like most people.
As long as you don't desire or need ultra setting either woudl be fine. But, the Ti is, as you said, more powerful on paper. For $15 ist might be worth it.
I would go to the Gigabyte forums and see what people say about the bluetooth connectivity or signal strength. I just added a Bluetooth dongle to my PC but having herd of interference issues when trying to put them in USB 3.0 sockets I made sure I hooked it up to a USB 2.0 and added an extender cable. The USB extender makes sure the BT transceiver is not behind my system.
I have no testing of my own on signals boost or if any interference would have occurred. I just read the forums that said ist COULD be and issue, so I decided to preventively set it up the way I did.
It might just be my opinion, but think Switch seems poorly thought through at a high level. It not quite and handheld, it not quite a home console; so concession for each use case seems at odds with each other. They needed to scrap this project 18 months ago.
They should have made a handheld that could be plugged into a TV. It needed stronger portable DNA: twice the battery power, more on board faster storage, and it needed to ditch the motions controls and RFID that had to be shrunk down into the Joycons. And they needed to 'dry run' the online service on Wii U for 18 months, so that Switch could have been using a Generation-2 version of what they planned.
Awfully nice case and power supply for an entry level system. I think a Corsair Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case is better sized and better priced for a base system. And, a semi-modular like the Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply.
The PC is okay, but I like the cat more.
I like the attachment of the 3.5" drives on the front. The system has balance and it own Feng Shui that rival most other machine shown here.
The only thing I would bring up, and it is just me musing away, is that I tend to like to have an HDMI port on the mobo. I like it because if worst comes to worst you can always hook it up to a TV - your video and audio is all handled on one wire. HDMI is something any fool can hook up, so for a kids machine or for a clumsy adult it is ideal Also, while you can pick up a used monitor cheap, most people will likely have better access to a "bedroom size" HDTV.
Also, in my mind when I think of a complete system I don't worry about it having a keyboard and mouse as much as I think it should have a media drive. For $12 you can put a functional DVD drive on a system. I'd rather put those $12 my shopping list buying a media drive rather than a keyboard. Again most people have an old keyboard and mouse, they don't have a DVD drive....unless they are like me who has a closest full of PC parts.
That's it, those are my musings... Well, this was my solution of a cheap-ish AMD system. http://pcpartpicker.com/p/6zTqxr
Just and FYI
A compromised version of Linux Mint 17.3 Cinnamon edition, that included a HUGE backdoor, was being hosted of teh Mint site last week (Feb 2016) . While I don't like saying this, YOU MUST BE VERY careful with any Linux OS ISO you download. Check the forums, don't grab a revision right away, and if you plan on using Linux - put it on a drive you would not mind smashing with a hammer.
I think as of right now the issue is resolved, but we wary.
Oh, I like you build otherwise and you care to make sure ist is indeed the cheapest with shipping and all consideration included. I too get annoyed when I see "$200 COMPUTER!!!" and then notice half the parts are not purchased, and the system has not OS. Good job.
First off nice system. You likely have more power supply than you need but whatever...if it makes you happy. As other have said a GTX 970 would be more appropriate for the system you have, you went to the expense with the Z97 mobo and the Core i5 unlocked cpu...so I'd upgrade that GPU to come in line.
You could have gone with CAS 8 DDR 3 1866 RAM instead of CAS 10 for about $5 more. The difference between CAS 10 and CAS 8 is significant enough to warrant paying $5 more.
Again nice system, so be happy with it.
I think you right on this one. The Intel does have better performances and it draws less power and thus would run cooler.
Too bad you didn't do any bench mark testing. I would have loved to have known what bench marks it was hitting.
What CPU cooler are you using. BTW: Nice wiring job its very clean.
Well, a R270 would have cost about $40 more....price was a consideration...and the 750Ti works like a champ.
Update: Just bought a new SSD to replace the old recycled HDDs. The SSD was inexpensive and 120 GB, yet ist will store and run everything we need.
Currently, the machine is up in the public access computer room where I have a number of "devoted fans" who play free/demo PC games on it. We have a young man who comes in nearly daily to play War Thunder on it. Not every library can afford a gaming PC, but the kids do enjoy it.
I need to put up more pictures...and put up our second build.
Again - Always assume an outlet might be hot from every wire and part. Always.
I used that case too for a "teaching build", its a nice case for the price. Light weight, decent window, and nice blue led fan. The inside is nice can clean and painted very important in a cheap case where you often just get bare unpainted aluminum, and set-up nicely for wiring. Sure, an more expensive case has more bells & whistles, but for about $30 this case is sweet.
Change is hard, but I like the look overall. It looks modern and sophisticated.
You can buy a sound bar for as little as $19, or splurge and get one for under $50. That would keep it off the desk or out of your way
I say work with someone local, and work with someone who can show you their work first hand. If they have 'a business' to build computers they will probably have a clients computer on the bench. Or, at the very very very least they will have half a dozen systems they have built with pictures as proof.
Also at this point ANY idiot can have a website for $8 a month, so if they don't even have a website you have to wonder why. Look for a builder who outlines WHAT they will do for you after the sale in writing. It might be a little it might be a lot, but if they say what they will do at least you know...I'd even trust somone MORE if what they offer is very little...they are at least not sugar coating it.
Not sure I would buy the HIS, its the slowest and it has mediocre rating. The rating might not mean much objectively, but it does have the lowest specs in the line.
More like $140, unless you want the worst 270.
You can ditch the $7 for thermal paste too. The Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO comes with a one gram tube of paste, which is more than enough for taking the cooler on/off three times over its life.
Where those monitors worth it for you photos? It think for myself, sitting in front of two huge screens would be a bit difficult.
Obsidian Series® 450D Mid-Tower PC Case
Very clean lines, nice window, and plenty of cooling room. Very solid case for a build with enough extras to make your build look good.
Well, it not bad at all. But, as just a head up for $5 more there is 1866MHz and a CAS 8 too. https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f314900cl8d8gbxm
Either one really, because my guess is both would run about the same just as stable.
Good choice, that will play games pretty damn well.
Nice build. Yeah, knowing what you want and what it can do helps a lot....but that's how you learn. If you do get a GPU you 'could' get one that pairs well with you Kavari in Dual Graphics mode...but I don't think it is worth it.
If you want the most for your money don't worry about dual graphics. Just buy a decent GPU. There are a lot of videos about GPUs at different price points to help you decide.
I'll admit I didn't worry about that, since I have no USB 3 components to use or test. The case has only a wire that goes to the the USB 2.0 port on a mobo, I can confirm that.
I really like this case. I would give it a 5/5 for cases under $40 and for a nice case to to a quick solid build. But, even I have to admit that I'd rather have a $150 case for a high-end build because you get bells & whistles.
But, this is a super nice value with very solid quality. I would use it again for sure above any other case I have seen at that price.
Hmmm, yeah, installing Linux might be a direction to go. I'll see about creating a create a bootable USB. Is there an advantage to SLAX over say Umbuntu or Zorin?
Also thank you for mentioning a tool to check the drives. I clean the drives by doing a single with freeware Active@ KillDisk, but it is good to know what to use to check the drives under Linux.
The only reason to NOT face it down would be if there was no cooling vents or dust filter on the bottom. But that case has a dust filter and vent on the bottom...feet are a bit small but it will suck in air just fine as long as it not on a rug.
My thinking is you probably have 'other fans' that will cool off the GPUs just fine. So let the PSU cool itself efficiently because THAT is important too. The GPUs will cool just fine from the other fans... unless you skimp on other fans.
That's cool... I was not offended. I stole the monitor off someone's desk just to post the machine, they ask "Where are you going with that monitor?" I had to explain I was just borrowing it.
I'm a Reference/Technology librarian at our local library. This year we are into MAKING things, so I am teaching "Making a PCs from Scratch". (I'm doing a Breaker Space too where you disassemble everyday electronics to make ...err robots or weird toys I guess.)
This first PC will be our showcase...yeah, I know, a pretty weak showcase...but this is all for low cost remember. So this PC will stay together and be used in the library for various fun things.
I have authority to spend another $500-$700 to buy parts we will then use to build the next machine. (Maybe that machine will be better, but I actually think simple and cheap is better for a class like this.) That next machine will cover three different classes. First a class where we build a PC. Then a class with mostly the same students to install the OS and benchmark. For the final class with those students we will cover some mild OC and tweaks.
Then I take the whole thing apart...re-box all the parts and start over with more students. Its sort of cheating to keep rebuilding the same PC, but that is how I can swing doing one build a month for 12 months. Also, if the parts are cheaper I don't have to worry about something breaking. From time to time we will do a Frankenstein Monster build for "dump parts" to see if we can get a ALL FOUND PARTS computer to work.
I want to work up to maybe holding a class where people buy their own parts and then we all build a PC. Everyone helps everyone else...that would be cool too. On the other hand, I have to teach 3D printer classes, Simple Coding, and other technology classes...as well as do my real job! The library has a 3D printer, 3D scanner, and other fun things...my hands are full.
I will add here that MANY public libraries do Maker Spaces. Also, if you know how to make a PC or 3D printing, they might be looking for someone like you to help them. You get to at least have the fun of making a PC even if you can't keep it
The monitor was just to see if it would POST. I will probably get a cheap, but decent wide screen 1080 monitor for this build. I have a small budget for new parts for my classes.
Yeah, it GB...I was having a brain fart.
Well, gee if you are playing at 720p you could do ultra (or very high) setting on a GTX 750 ti. And, that also holds for only a few less games at 1080p as long as 40-50 fps is okay with you.
I suppose to future proof your purchase, you could go with a MSI Gaming N760 TF 4GD5/OC or a EVGA 04G-P4-3768-KR. That's a GTX 760 with 4GB of video ram...I have not played with either card, but they are compact for an ITX build and only $230-$250.
Me? I'd go with the GTX 750 ti. Its small, power efficient, inexpensive and will play games just fine on the road. I'd just make my ITX road-warrior box as small and power efficient as possible...but that's just me.
Since the board you have on your list does have an optical out, I assume you are looking for a cheaper alternative, so less than $127.
Okay, well...all of teh beloe are under $100
Since you don't want to overclock look at some B85, H87 and H97 boards. Some of them even have the power rating and protections to do a mild overclock but without the price. I would look at the above and decide what strikes your fancy.
There are plug-is for PDFs, they are searchable from the OpenOffice page. In installed three PDF modules then from the Open Office start page I told it to open the PDF. It opened it in their Draw Module, and form there I was able to save it in other formats. There might even be a FREE add on that will give you more flexibility.
Have you tried OpenOffice? https://www.openoffice.org/
Well, to be fair OpenOffice opens PDFs in its Draw modeule...but you then have a choice to save it as a .OTG, .SXD or .STD file
I use a green with my SSD, its fine. People do get a bit 'overworked' about not using green for anything but storage, but realistically it works fine and has no detriment to anything in a real world setting.