Build looks good. +1 for the VS239H-P it's an awesome monitor for the money. Absolutely love mine.
I have just 2 things to mention: the Kraken X60 comes with thermal paste pre-applied to the block, and if you can I would kick the GPU up to MSI's GTX 770 Lightning. Still the same GPU core as the 770 you have picked out, but the cooler and the PCB are higher quality, and once you overclock it (which is really easy to do) you can reach performance levels of stock reference GTX 780.
I would change two things: monitor and motherboard
Monitor: ASUS VS239H-P 1920x1080 IPS
It's a very attractively priced IPS panel, which gives VASTLY better color reproduction than the TN panel you've chosen. These parts you get are for gaming, so the last thing you want to miss out on is the actual thing that you look at.
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G41
The ASRock "3" boards are popular budget picks, but I feel that they're generally outclasses by most things you can find for a few bucks more. For one thing, those boards aren't full-width ATX. The left side of the board hangs off because it's not wide enough to reach the standard ATX standoffs yet not thing enough to reach the middle standoffs.
Other than those two things, the build is very balanced.
What kind of overclocks are you hoping to achieve on your CPU?
I like your tissue box
Ah, a workstation build! It looks really solid. One future thing to think about would be a NAS with NAS drives to back up your files.
Power supplies have a hump-shaped efficiency curve, so they're most efficient at ~50% load and least efficient at low and high loads. So your choice to kick it up was a good one!
Hahaha, the best wallpaper!
At the point where a 780 at 1080p 60Hz no longer fulfills your requirements, I think either a then-current-gen upgrade or a system overhaul is in order, because that will be a looong time from now!
The H80i is a good cooler. It's only a single 120mm radiator, but it's a thick radiator, which makes it about as good as you can get for a single 120. I would get the H80i if you can see yourself water cooling in the near future (like, less than 6 months) but can't find any H220's for sale. If you think you'll hold off on water cooling for longer than that, then I'd get an H100i. If you don't plan to water cool at all, I'd get the H100i there too.
WOW G710 prices shot UP. That's insane...
People like to interchange G710 and G710+ :P They're the same board. The CM Storm QuickFire Rapid w/brown keys does sound like a good board for you then. Just factor in the cost of a wrist-rest, but that ain't a biggie!
EDIT: FYI, the QF Rapid doesn't have a numpad...not sure if that matters to you. But if it does, then there's THIS http://pcpartpicker.com/part/rosewill-keyboard-rk9000br which right now also comes with a free wrist wrest haha
Sir, it is JJ :)
Channel needs so much more recognition. Lots of good stuff on there and a lot of first-person, face-to-face (screen-to-screen?) advice too.
Two or three years down the line, you can add a second 760 if you need it, at which point 760s will be even cheaper than they are now, which saves you even more money
OH hey, it's JJ! Nice to see you on PCPP. I noticed that the 780 DCU2 OC for a couple weeks was only available on Newegg and just recently became available at SuperBiiz - can we expect the same kind of gap for the VI Formula before it becomes available at other etailers or is this a hard-boiled Newegg exclusive?
If one of your needs is painting, throw away any suggestion you hear that doesn't give an IPS monitor! Who cares if X monitor has crazy response time or 144Hz refresh rate. A TN is a TN, and TN color reproduction is killed by IPS color reproduction. IPS is a painter's #1 asset, because at the end of the day it's what you're staring at!
Anyways...the ASUS PB238Q fits in your budget and is part of their professional series of IPS monitors. Though the PA248Q is better for you if you can swallow the $310 price tag.
Outside of that series ASUS also has the very sexy MX239H for $230, and the value-oriented VS239H-P at around $160.
If you feel like you'll eventually get into custom water cooling, get the Swiftech H220. Unlike other all-in-ones (like the H100i, which is very nice by the way) you can use it later on as part of a custom loop.
The only problem is...Swiftech recently pulled their sales from the 'States because of legal issues with Asetek (big OEM all-in-one cooler manufacturer - a lot of Corsair(old)/NZXT/etc models are rebranded Asetek coolers). If you can find one somewhere, snatch it up because once the remaining stock is gone, there's no telling when a new set will arrive unless you want to buy it through another person overseas.
If you can't find an H220, the Corsair H100i is an awesome, reliable, high performance cooler.
It's definitely sexy. I'm kind of wary of the thermal armor though... I mean, with the Sabertooth P67/Z77/Z87, the armor would actually raise the board temps higher than if you had no armor on at all when you didn't use the included 35mm fans. It's only after you install the fans that the armor helps cool the board past passive cooling w/o armor on.
And here I see armor and no assist fans...hmm...
There's absolutely no way it's under $300 :D
I like my Logitech G710 a lot. It has cherry MX brown switches, which give you the feedback of blues without being loud. The G710 in particular has hard rubber o-rings under the keys to further dampen any noise. The actual lettering on the keys are backlit, unlike some keyboards that just light up the surroundings of the keys. To do this, companies have to laser-etch the letters so that the plastic allows light through - so the lettering never rubs off since it's not printed onto the key. The lettering is literally part of the physical makeup of the plastic.
Get all of your important, expensive parts from sites like Newegg, NCIX, Microcenter, or TigerDirect. You can get small stuff or "hard to f up on" stuff like case fans, your case itself, and heatsink from wherever it's cheapest - so if Amazon is the cheapest, get those kinds of items from there.
Basically, stuff that you rarely see RMA'd you can get from wherever it's chepest. But for stuff like motherboards and graphics cards, I like to buy from big-name retailers so that the RMA process is streamlined should I need it.
Nice build! Totally agree with you on the 900D reasoning. How are you liking that ASUS 780 DCU2? I missed its first stock on Newegg, so I had to order last week and it only came in yesterday... And now I'm waiting for the rest of my parts. Seems to be one of if not THE best cooler on the market.
Also, I love the CD drive in the basement :D
Air cooling is not at all dangerous.
And the guy you're talking to IS the builder :)
Have you ever seen a heatsink fall off when screwed on? Or have you only read about it once in the thousands of various threads you've seen?
Just wondering because at 1080p you could get something less and still get solid 60fps since your monitor runs at 60Hz. But I just read this is for rendering, so the 780 makes sense. Cheers and enjoy your new PC!
Why'd you get a 1080p monitor with a 780?
Yeah, most current-gen games depend more on the GPU for framerates. So whenever you look at a performance example, be sure to check what GPU is being used. It's far more important. I really recommend AMD CPUs for budgets under $600 though. But for the sake of discussion, here is an i3-3220 build for you:
It's quite a bit over-budget. You will get better performance than the other two builds I made, but it's more expensive. Play around with the build how you like, but I'm not sure if much can be done with Intel gaming in the sub-$500-600 range.
Which Intel CPU were you wanting? I would go with an i3 if you really have to have an Intel CPU. Is there any particular reason you want to go with Intel over AMD? AMD is consistently cheaper in price-to-performance.
Okay, so I put this together:
It's a little bit over-budget, mainly due to the graphics card. If you have a 1920x1080 resolution monitor, then you'll want that build because the GPU has 2GB of VRAM.
If your monitor is below 1920x1080, then switch to this build:
Basically it's the same card but with 1GB of VRAM instead of 2GB. 1GB is plenty for resolutions lower than 1920x1080.
Any questions or concerns, let me know!
Forgot to ask - what resolution is your monitor?
That's great! Haha the build I was staring at was $100 over-budget so that's good news
Yeah it is difficult at that price point. Considering the OS alone costs $90. I'll see what I can do though.
Uh, I suppose I could. You'll have to bear with me though on time because I'm very busy for the next few days. I highly recommend that you try to put your own build together first, and then we can work from there. It helps you learn a lot more about computer parts in general, which can be REALLY useful if you encounter problems while building or something comes up a year after you build and you gotta fix it.
Just start at the top of the list and go down. Also, do you need to buy a monitor/speakers?
For $400-450 your options are a bit limited. For your GPU I suggest the GTX 650, GTX 650 Ti Boost, or Radeon 7790. You'll almost definitely want to go with an AMD Athlon or Phenom processor, but I'm not very well versed on their CPUs. Intel is a fair bit more expensive though, that much is plain. For RAM, find the cheapest 2x2GB DDR3-1600 kit you can, or try to hunt for a deal on 2x4GB DDR3-1600
How's the ASUS PCE-N15 treating you? Been reading a LOT of horror stories about it on Newegg reviews lately, and I'm a bit nervous about buying it even though it looks like a good deal on paper.
Curious why you went 1866 instead of 1600 RAM? Trying to decide which to buy for my build.
Nobody ever said it was a state of the art GPU. All anybody ever said was that the smartest thing to do right now if he doesn't have cash but wants 680/770 performance is to buy a 650 Ti Boost and get a 2nd one for SLI later.
Also, while NVidia may do a lot of rebranding on their cards, their most recent rebrand, the 770, ended up bringing better than 680 performance at a lower cost. If that's how they plan to rebrand from now on, then I'm happy with that...
Lastly, the 670 is not a mid-range GPU. It's a high end GPU. Why? Because any GPU that gives you greater than 60 fps at 1080p is a high-end GPU. Because beyond that you get into higher refresh rate monitors and/or higher resolutions. A mid range GPU is one that gives a fluid 60 fps on a 60Hz 1080p monitor at the lowest price point, because that's what most of the gaming market has - a single 60Hz 1080p monitor.
The market is divided based on the largest share of its consumers. If most consumers have a single 60Hz 1080p monitor, then the cards which approach or reach 60fps at that resolution are mid-range "mainstream" cards. Anything under is lower-end, anything higher is high-end.
Nowhere near a "close to a top notch cpu". That's a mainstream Intel CPU. And a 650 Ti is only a few months old, and in SLI it's the equivalent of a GTX 770 for much cheaper.
If he was looking for 680/770 performance, but didn't have the cash, then the 650 Ti Boost was a very smart decision by him, as he can always expand later...
What speakers do you have? Love the lights on them
Isn't there a header on the GPU's PCB that regulates the stock cooling fan? Why didn't you plug the pump in there?
Also, I'm thinking of doing The Mod on my GTX 780, and I'm planning on using the zip-tie method to mount the pump. Do you think I could zip tie the fan to the VRMs? And iff I zip-tie the fan against the VRMs, could the fan frame melt?
Sorry for so many questions lol. Hard to find "The Mod" builds that are recent.
Might want to edit out that serial number label on your CPU box O_O
Awesome wallpaper. :D