Hi, sorry for the late reply.
Unfortunately you can't really get just the CPU 8-pin and motherboard 24-pin cables. The cables I used in this build are wired directly from the PSU to the components instead of using the stock PSU cables + extensions (because extensions won't fit into the keyed PSU holes).
So the cables are sold by Corsair themselves and since they follow their proprietary pinout keying, they're kind of expensive.
Here is the motherboard 24-pin: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/individually-sleeved-ax-860-760-atx-24pin-generation-2-white
and here are the rest of the cables: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/professional-individually-sleeved-dc-cable-kit-type-3-generation-2-white
Be sure to check the compatibility on those cable kits to make sure they fit into your PSU.
The rest of the white cables for other PSUs are listed here: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/power-supply-units/psu-accessories?acccolor=White|
I would find the one you need then try to buy it elsewhere (Performance PCs is a great online retailer). Also keep in mind that all of these only work with Corsair power supplies.
If you're very concerned about noise, I would go with a heatsink cooler instead of a radiator, because the pump units on all AIO coolers make a soft whooshing noise. Normally it's far too quiet to be noticeable, but under absolute silence it is the only source of noise and so it stands out.
It's the one major thing that bothers me about my main build. With all of my fans turned off, the rushing noise of the pump is the only thing I can focus on..
Hrm, my Gigabyte mouse is failing and I need to pick up a new mouse. The Taipan looked pretty decent as I share my mouse with a left handed person every now and then... Totally weird, but the sad truth. All mice need some adjusting but as long as it's possible to reach a good comfort level, I'm happy. You just sold me a Taipan! Thanks. And thanks for the kind words as well. The cinematic comment means a LOT as I'm working to be a cinematographer and/or 3D modeler-VFX artist.
There really is no better name for a Stryker build ;)
Well done on the cable management and nice part choices. How are you liking the Taipan?
Thanks for the kind words! There actually are vents on the front - they're just sort of "hidden" around the edges of the case.
(All those black slits in the front)
It's definitely not the most ideal ventilation design, but it doesn't starve the build either.
Adjusted your CPU, motherboard, RAM, HDD, GPU, PSU, monitor, and wifi card. Added a CPU cooler.
Slightly lower board and HDD (but the HDD is double the capacity for cheaper), equal RAM at a lower price, IPS monitor at a lower price, equal wifi card at a lower price.
Savings allowed for:
A 4690K, a CPU cooler, better GPU, IPS monitor, and better PSU all while saving you about $30. You can keep your original CPU and lose the CPU cooler if you want. That would save you about $100 off your original list and you'd still benefit from the better GPU, IPS monitor, and better PSU.
Very solid part choices! All this needs is some interior shots posted ;)
Whoa whoa, steady there, wizard. I meant no offense, nor was I trying to provide sources to refute your points. Clear examples of that are the WoW and SC2 tests you mentioned. Why would I link you to those if I was trying to bash you? I wouldn't. I mean, they're even on the same page as the rest of the benchmarks that look better. The numbers (even the negative ones) stand alone.
I was simply providing another point of view that I think OP has overlooked. It is too often for CPUs that people focus on specs instead of real world performance. It is true that you can make very reasonable guesses at real world performance using specs, but that's not how a lot of new builders think. People can tell them what specs to look for, but that tells them nothing about why those specs make sense.
A newbie doesn't know that an i5 is basically on par with an i7 for gaming unless they look at test results and realize that the two CPUs are aimed at different overall groups of users.
Core count, IPC, and clock speed all matter to a certain extent. But those are almost academic compared to real-world tests of their effects on gaming performance.
Even if the IPC on a modern Intel CPU is double that of an AMD CPU, that doesn't mean you get double the gaming performance, as these GPU-locked gaming benchmarks clearly show:
Which means that citing specifications is a rather weak argument for choosing one CPU over another. Surely there is a definite performance difference, but not to the degree which a simplistic comparison of specs would lead you to believe.
CPU choice should be based on actual tests of performance. Core count, clock speed, and IPC all distract from the statistics that are actually important to be researching. The best way to choose a CPU is to look at the best performers in your software for the budget you have.
Comparing specs just subscribes to the notion that rattling off a bunch of numbers, acronyms, and multisyllabic technical terms is enough to justify one item over another, and that just isn't the case.
If you don't have enough light, get a tripod and shoot at a long shutter speed.
Glad things turned out okay for you!
Well, first of all no 750 Ti supports SLI, let alone 4-way SLI. But I would choose dual 970 even if they did.
Ouch, okay. The high temps you speak of are actually 55C, which is fine. Too much paste was used, but in real terms the CPU is not in any danger.
Black electrical tape has a melting point of around 80C, which is nowhere near what the GPU PCB or NH-U14S heat pipes reach. The glue itself could be an issue, but I'm not worried with the amount of pressure that is locking it in place. Simple fix would be to just stick a piece of rubber between the two, which I think I will do anyways.
Thanks for the writeup props, but I don't see where the skimping was done. Could just be my bias though. Would you mind pointing them out and explaining so I can learn from those mistakes? I feel like I could have done a lot worse. Especially since my friend originally wanted a 2697v2 without increasing the budget.
Thank you! That really means a lot as photography is one of my passions.
I would go with the Stryker. Give it some thought though, because you will not find another person on this site more biased toward the Stryker than me, haha..
Announced a few days after the posting of my comment, yeah. And the point stands that no 5K display uses a conventional video input.
No video output supports 5K. So to actually get a single-tile 5K monitor working you have to either overclock the output (not the GPU, the interface itself) or run at low refresh rates, or both.
If it matters much to you, 10 will be a free upgrade to those who have 8.1.
Other than that, OS choice just comes down to user preference. Pay no attention to all the talk of performance and obscure tests that people have done. The number 1 judge of an OS is how efficiently and comfortably you can use it. Everything else is a secondary consideration unless you have very specific software needs.
Try out some systems with 8.1 if you can (at a computer/tech store, university, or friends/family).
That's likely just the solder mask being rubbed up during ASUS' batch testing. They pull board samples out of their mass batches and stress test them to judge the quality of its group, meaning some boards need to be screwed into standoffs.
If it were me, I would still take it into the store though just to see what the people have to say. Might contact ASUS support as well and provide pictures to them.
Googling GTX 970 reviews for benchmarks would give you a pageful of instant answers. But in short, no it's not enough to max every game at 1440p, although it will max several.
I think it's the best price:performance GPU for upper-middle to high end builds. The nice thing about 1440p is you can turn down MSAA with no visible quality loss (since higher resolution is basically hardware-based AA). That will be your #1 performance hit turned into a performance gain.
Personally I wouldn't shell out the extra cash just to max my games out, but it depends on what you want of course.
I would say that your first consideration would be whether your build's budget means you're sacrificing extra performance to afford a water cooling loop, and if it does, then whether or not you prefer higher performance or silence/extreme cooling.
If your goal is foremost performance, I would just buy more/better GPUs and CPU. The main purposes behind custom water cooling are silence and temperatures. Any performance gains you get from higher overclocking headroom is just a bonus that often does not beat using your loop's funds to buy more processing power instead. Just depends on what your preference is and how much you are willing/able to pay.
I get what you're saying, but doesn't reality also involve net performance? A CPU that gives you higher gaming performance means little if you could buy a cheaper CPU and a better GPU while keeping your cost the same.
That will trump the "this CPU has better gaming performance than that one" argument every time in builds that are under $1000-$1500 depending on if OS or decent peripherals are bought, and frankly the vast majority of builds are at or below that price point.
The Source 210 isn't a great case. Built in a windowed version because my brother wanted the aesthetics but was on a budget. There are much better non-windowed cases for the same price or cheaper.
Window and price are the only things it has going for it. So with that said, I would never buy the non-windowed Source 210.
$399 is a heck of a price for a 4K monitor. Grats on the deal! :D Unfortunately its normal price is basically the same as that of the ASUS PB287Q. Monoprice is probably more likely to go on sale though.
So, amazing sale item, but not what I would pick if at regular cost. Definitely going to keep an eye out for this one.
Great find! For $2 I can't find an excuse not to compare them with my G710+'s stock o-rings.
Also your name is awesome.
HDDs and SSDs are not ROM.
Use the integrated graphics on a Haswell Refresh Pentium. For web browsing and word processing even the cheapest of those Pentiums would suffice.
Haha! Unfortunately my brother lives out of town, so I can't :( I totally should have though. Seems like a big oversight. Please don't hurt Mr. YOU. Think of his family.
The Acer H236HLbid is a pretty great monitor for triple-1080p surround. Glossy panels, but from what I hear the glass is very close to the panel and brightness minimizes the reflections you see.
The heat pipes are just a few millimeters from the window. It's kind of scary but not an issue unless you bang your side panel. I'm actually very active on this website so if you need any assistance feel free to ask questions about any of my builds or send me a personal message ;)
In my case, I watched several YouTube videos. The most helpful ones were Newegg's 3-part how-to series. It's a bit dated by now, but everything is covered right through OS installation.
They don't cover additional storage drives very well though. Just the main OS drive. For storage help beyond the OS drive NCIX has this fantastic video: http://youtu.be/qMo8krAJd5Q
That said, I mainly used those kinds of videos for visual confirmation. My first step was to look at the top part in my PCPartPicker system build list and ask myself what I would need to do to get that part running. Repeated until finished with the list. Then with those videos I answered questions like: What do all the cables look like? What do the headers I plug them into look like?
After that I tried to put the installation of parts in a sensible order. Mostly practical stuff like installing GPUs last to free up hand space while doing the rest of the build or installing case fans first before the inside becomes cluttered with components.
I always advocate building.
Even if that means paying a little extra for somebody to build it for you, if you're that nervous about it. And by that I mean a friend or a local PC building service, not the likes of OriginPC etc who have to pay for marketing and have brand partnerships. Imo though, successful building just takes common sense, patience, and a small degree of discipline.
I was extremely nervous on my first build. I found that it helped greatly to sit down and write out every single step in my build. Rigorously, down to opening boxes and nailing down clearly what cables (internal and peripherals) I would need to cleaning the misc bags and packing boxes when finished. Disciplined preparation always calms the nerves, much like it does for giving speeches or taking important tests. You do still have some jitters while building, but that's just your brain keeping you in shape and telling you to pay attention to what you're doing ;)
Tell yourself that you won't cut any corners. When you're sure of that, you can be pretty sure that your build will work. There are of course some things you can't control (ie, DOA parts). Factor these possibilities into your build plan and figure out what you will do in case they happen before you begin building. That way if something happens, you aren't left waving your hands and scrambling to figure out what to do.
Iron out a good plan and all you need to do on build day is execute, evaluate, repeat. Minimize uncertainty. It really does help your mind be at ease.
First I narrow my budget, then the case has to meet certain practical standards for me, and then I compare styles among all the choices that I'm left with.
They're all equally important, but the order matters because it means I get the most from my money.
I run stuff at 2560x1200 85Hz all the time on my PB278Q. Works great.
Looks like a false positive nightmare waiting to happen. :)
In all honesty though, it's interesting. Google results are somewhat positive, though most people are waiting for more comprehensive testing and review of it before jumping ship.
Gaming in widescreen is actually pretty awesome. I do it all the time, though I prefer 2560x1200 for a taller image.
You get a wider field of view in most games (nice in shooters, game-breaking advantage in top-downs), plus the black bars on the top and bottom of the screen give you a higher sense contrast, leading to a higher perceived image quality.
Depends on your GPU, but for Nvidia:
Open Nvidia Control Panel > Display > Change Resolution > Customize > Create Custom Resolution then use whatever settings you want.
I wouldn't mess with anything other than horizontal/vertical pixels and refresh rate.
Once done, click Test. If it passes, the new resolution option should appear on the home page under Nvidia Control Panel > Display > Change Resolution at the top of the list under a section named "Custom". Click the new resolution, make sure that color depth is 32-bit, and click apply to set your new output resolution.
I don't know the process for AMD, but I imagine it's something similar through Catalyst Control Center.
Honestly, because your budget has to fit an OS and monitor, I think an inexpensive laptop is the best option for you unless you feel you will want to expand into more intensive tasks later on. Basic everyday computing is just fine on laptops, and I'd argue that portability makes them a better choice over desktops for the task.
Completely agree. It's embarrassing..
For example, "Modest" could get a GPU upgrade to a 970 if the CPU drops down to an FX-6300. Which all considered would perform better. Sure, single-threaded performance goes down, but what kind of typical gamer is a single-thread power user? I'd trade performance in MS Word for Far Cry 4 any day...
Would you mind detailing some parts/software and reasoning for parts/software for that 16TB NAS of yours? I'm looking at building a NAS for my home and would appreciate any insight.
Love the pictures! Great lighting, smooth and even.
No! I think it's totally acceptable to own both, and I absolutely hate the 'PC Master Race' mentality. All it does is embolden meme-spouting douchebags who, instead of actually using their PCs to game, would rather settle their insecurities by boasting about them and putting other people down.
The only games I play are on PC, but even so it sucks to be typewritten as a 'PC elitist' by others simply because some teenage/early 20's idiots spew their biased, unthinking nonsense across the internet.
It takes a person with common sense and an open mind to understand that there are reasons to own consoles. For entertainment, performance takes a backseat to...actually being entertained. And what it is that brings that entertainment is different for every person. It's incredible how many people don't understand that.
Primary: Schoolwork, personal research, and internet browsing
Secondary: Photo/video production and graphic design
Why not just wait until then to ponder these mysteries of life?
I saved them all. Ended up using the H100i's stock SP120's and the case's stock 140mm and 120mm on a lower budget build for my older brother here: http://pcpartpicker.com/b/XvQ7YJ
H100i stock fans went on the H212 EVO in push-pull, 140mm went in the roof, and the 120mm went in the front as a 2nd fan. I was extremely happy with how that turned out lol.
The two other 120mm fans I sold to a friend along with some other parts.
Oh wow, I didn't even realize it was the same guy... He doesn't seem to understand the concept of budgets and playing give-and-take with component prices.
Or he's trolling...
BF3 vs. BF4
BF4 ended up being 45% harder to drive than BF3, so I would expect around that for "next-gen" in terms of BF4 vs. "BF5". Very rough guess.
Get whichever leaves you the most money for a GPU. The 4570 is slightly better in games, but that means nothing if the money you save on an 8320 lets you buy a better GPU. The 8320 is better in multithreaded workloads.
The Thor cases are only good on the outside. On the inside they're really overpriced for the design. I hate the lack of window honestly.
Straya is Aussie slang for Australia, so there's your answer for why he's replying at a weird time lol. I'm assuming you live on the west coast? Quite a time difference between there and Australia :)
Yes you can fit a 240 in the roof and on the bottom in the Stryker. The Enthoo Pro is amazing, and the other cases of the series are all just additions of features or build quality to the base case, so they're all amazing as well. Just not as great a value as the Pro.
It's largely a personal experience thing, but many people find that the distance you typically sit from a 27" monitor makes 1080p too low of a resolution. That screen size plus that viewing distance really lends itself to 1440p so that the size of pixels goes down and sharpness goes up.
I personally find icons uncomfortably large and awkward looking when I set my 27"-1440 monitor to 1080p. So the large UI scaling alone can turn people off when having larger screens without larger resolutions.