I have no idea what the issue is to be honest. You're using the right markup choice or else you wouldn't have the sort of formatting that's there, even if it's incomplete. Send 'phillip' a PM for help as he knows this website inside and out (founder and creator).
No problem! And I'd agree with the 1240 V3 since you can't change the speed of any of these CPUs - couple dollars won't mean much in the long run. If you have any other questions feel free to ask or shoot me a PM!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: i7-4790 to Xeon e3-1230 V3. Same quad core with hyperthreading, much less expensive. Difference of 0.3GHz on the core clock. 1240 V3 is a 3.4GHz CPU if you want slightly more.
CPU Cooler: Removed. You get one with your CPU and an aftermarket one is not needed unless you are bothered by the noise output from the stock one or you're overclocking. OCing is not possible on the Xeon or the original CPU you chose, so you may be able to save money here based on your tolerance for noise.
Thermal Compound: Removed. Stock cooler comes with paste pre-applied. If you buy the Hyper 212 EVO you also get a packet of thermal paste in the box. Using aftermarket paste isn't really worth it when using inexpensive coolers, as you'd gain more for the money by just buying a better cooler.
Motherboard: Intel DH87MC to MSI Z87-G43. Higher quality motherboard at a lower price - Intel boards are usually more expensive across the line compared to other manufacturers.
RAM: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 CAS9 to G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 CAS10. Faster memory for cheaper and from what I've heard is a more reliable brand.
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Superclocked ACX to NVIDIA Quadro K2000. The card is at the bottom of the list as a custom part because it's currently not in the PCPartPicker database. You'll get a much much smoother viewport framerate using a Quadro and support for GPU acceleration where applicable. To see pricing source, view the list in edit mode and click the name of the card to see the link to the etailer's product page.
PSU: Corsair CX430 80+ Bronze Semi-Modular to Corsair CX600 80+ Bronze Semi-Modular. Same price after rebates and you get more headroom for future expansion (more hard drives, a RAID card, network cards, etc).
I'm not totally sure on that software but I do know that if you use Autodesk Revit it will use up to 16 cores when doing photorealistic photon mapping simulations.
You'll probably also want something like a Quadro K2000 for better framerate in viewport (GeForce/Radeon cards are pretty bad for this).
Right away I think a Xeon e3-1230 V3 or 1240 V3 would be a much more cost effective choice than the locked i7 though. I'll work on a list.
It looks like you're missing some spaces and pretty much all the link destinations.
Should look like this, for example:
[PCPartPicker part list](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/qckmFT) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/qckmFT/by_merchant/)
**CPU** | [AMD FX-8320 3.5GHz 8-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/amd-cpu-fd8320frhkbox) | $139.99 @ SuperBiiz
**CPU Cooler** | [Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-cpu-cooler-h100i) | $89.99 @ NCIX US
**Motherboard** | [Asus M5A99FX PRO R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-motherboard-m5a99fxpror20) | $114.99 @ Newegg
**Memory** | [G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f314900cl8d8gbxm) | $84.99 @ Newegg
**Storage** | [Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz7te120bw) | $69.99 @ Newegg
| | **Total**
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $499.95
Ah, GT720M. You may be right. Does the 8570 come in a mobile flavor though? Confusing title.
You'll be totally fine with anything above 600W. I'd go with a 750/760. Antec's High Current Gamer series is great and is usually very affordable and compared to other PSUs around it of the same quality.
Right now a 770 2GB will outperform a 280X 3GB. I expect that may change in the next year or two as games become more VRAM-demanding. I think it comes down to budget first, and then features as viking mentioned.
You'll be limited to 3 monitors for gaming + 1 auxiliary monitor with Nvidia. You'll get Shadowplay and PhysX if that matters to you. If you use Adobe Premiere CS6 and/or After Effects CS6 you'll get CUDA/OpenGL acceleration.
With AMD you'll get more multi-monitor support, Mantle, a little lower idle power if that matters to you, and superior OpenCL acceleration if you use Premiere CC (not CS6) although you won't as of now have that benefit for After Effects CC.
I would skip both, get a processor with integrated graphics, and start to save money for anything that is equal to or greater than an AMD R7 260X or Nvidia GTX 750 Ti.
Does your version of Fan Xpert have manual speed override? You might be pushing it to 100%, not sure. I have a different version. If it continues to not work just have it reevaluate the system and maybe it'll recognize all your headers.
For silence when you're at idle doing nothing stressful.
If you think you might run two GPUs in SLI or CrossFire in the future on Intel, you will need a Z series board. Same goes for overclocking with a compatible CPU. If you don't want to do at least one of those things then H is good enough. The only difference between H87 and H97 is M.2 SSD support.
Holy ****! Why are those 2TB drives so expensive?!?!?
Those people are recycling old information without bothering to reinform themselves. Xeon e3's these days really are just locked i7's minus the iGPU. It was the same way for the V2 family.
Part of it is a bad side-effect marketing, I think. If you go to any Newegg Xeon CPU listing, the features tab will be full of Intel business jargon, as that's the market Xeons are aimed at. Lazy people just transfer their thoughts on the B87 chipset (which is rightfully just a business chipset) and apply it to the "business" Xeons. But in real world terms, it's literally just a cheaper 4770.
Oh hahaha wow, that totally changes things xD
Dual monitors you will have no problem running a 2GB card. Really it's pretty much the same as having 1 monitor since you only game on a single monitor in a dual setup.
However for a 3-monitor setup you will need more than 2GB. 3x 1080p (5760x1080) is actually even higher resolution than 2560x1440.
Sorry I'm not sure if I understand your question right. Are you asking if it's okay to use 2 or 3 TV's as your computer monitors?
I forgot to add, in order to mount a third front fan you will need to purchase an additional hard drive bay from Cooler Master: http://www.cmstore-usa.com/cm-storm-trooper-hdd-cage/
It's currently out of stock but I've been in contact with CM about other things before, and they restock their replacement case parts in week 1 or 4 of each month.
If you're looking for some good cable extensions and splitters, check out the ones from Bitfenix. I usually shop for cables at FrozenCPU.com as they have a great catalog. They have extremely high shipping rates though, so after I find what I want I buy it somewhere else, usually Performance-PCs or Amazon :D
I'm honored that you liked my 'VALKYRIE' build so much! Thank you for the nice comments :)
I have some minor feedback on the part list. As much as I love my NF-S12A FLX's, I would go with the PWM version these days. They're cheaper and you'll get smoother speed changes when using ASUS Fan Xpert control software using PWM fans. Mainly they're cheaper, so there's really no downside.
From my personal experience you may need to get a little fancy with your fan cabling. I have all of my NF-S12A's hooked up to a single fan header with a 3-to-1 splitter. This way I can control all of them at once and it's just easier to power them this way. It might even be impossible to run each fan to its own header if I remember right. In any case you should look up the motherboard layout in the manual (which you can find online) and try to imagine which headers should be connected to which fans for the cleanest (and cheapest) cable runs with extensions/splitters.
Note that many users and reviewers have reported that with memory speeds greater than DDR3-1866 you may limit the overclocking headroom on a Haswell CPU. The extra price you pay is a bit of a gamble as you might need to downclock from 2400 to 1866 to reach a higher stable clock speed.
Lastly have you thought about waiting for the i7-4790K and a Z97 motherboard?
Good luck on your build and thanks for stopping by to read the build I posted!
No problem! If you need anything else don't hesitate to ask here or shoot me a PM.
I think you're right that being in that area wouldn't be as bad, but you also have to consider you'd probably look after a PC under a TV cabinet less often than a PC on your desk. It evens out imo when you take into account maintenance.
I like the aesthetic of the PC-Q02 but dislike that it's passively cooled (dust), but I really dislike the SD101 because it's actively exhaust-cooled (super dust). The SD101 looks to be 90% mesh as well, which makes it that much easier for dust to get vacuumed in.
No it would still be a good buy. A 770 at 1080p will give you ultra in many games with MSAA cranked up. It might not be the strongest card for 1440p, but it works there because you can turn MSAA down since you've got more pixels (hardware-based AA).
At 1080p you could safely go down to an R9 270 and above, or a GTX 760 or above. Not saying you'll get ultra, but you'll get a lot of value for graphics settings that are still good. And the 770 can now be a 2GB instead of 4GB.
Can't be sure, but it's only for After Effects CC anyways. If you're using CS6 or earlier you will never have AMD OpenCL support, as they're no longer updating features for CS6.
If you're using CC, then it could come at any time since Adobe does rolling updates to CC (instead of waiting for releases like CS5, CS5.5, CS6, etc).
The same ideology holds true for Premiere Pro and any other Adobe software - CS6 and earlier are baked in as you see them now, with updates only for bug fixes or CameraRaw for Photoshop, and CC will have ongoing updates.
The smallest possible case for a decent GPU would be the Lian-Li PC-TU100. You're limited to an ASUS GTX 670/760 Mini or an MSI GTX 760 ITX.
If you want a full sized graphics card, the next smallest would be the Rosewill Legacy U2, but I'm not a fan of its single-fan setup. With just 1 fan your only choice is to use it as exhaust to draw air through the case (there's nowhere else for air to go if you use it as intake). Exhaust-only creates a dust problem as your case becomes a dust vacuum at every crack or opening, as it forces air to be take in from anywhere that's available.
The next smallest case that supports full-size GPUs without dust issues is the Silverstone FT03 Mini. I'd choose it over the Rosewill Legacy U2.
And finally, if you need hard drive space, the next up would be the Fractal Design Node 304 which offers you what the Silverstone does, but with the ability to use 6 3.5" or 2.5" hard drives, instead of 1x 3.5" + 2x 2.5".
The only one I'd really recommend against is the Legacy, but it depends on how important the small form factor is to you. They all have their advantages and disadvantages. Hope this helps.
If the price is what's getting you down, check out the Xeon e3-1230 V3. Quad-core with hyperthreading priced way lower. The difference between it and the 4770K is no overclocking, no iGPU, and a tiny bit lower clock speed. But it will perform better than any overclocked i5 for recording and editing.
If the clock speed is an issue for you, then you can go up the Xeon e3 V3 line (1240, 1250, etc) until you find one you like. Anything ending in a 5 has an iGPU (1235, 1245, etc) and anything at or above 1230 has hyperthreading.
But only for Premiere Pro.
OpenCL (AMD) actually performs better than OpenGL (Nvidia) for Premiere's Mercury Playback Engine, but there just isn't OpenCL support for After Effects (yet).
Solid parts selection, but a couple notes:
I would get a Xeon e3-1230 V3 or 1240 V3 instead of a locked i7. Much less expensive and you still get 4 cores with hyperthreading with the same cache size. The difference is no iGPU and a little lower clock speed, but for that much money saved, can't really complain.
If you want an i7, stick to the unlocked K versions, which at least offer you something significant for the price you pay - overclocking. Lacking that, Xeons are just a better value for the money I think.
Lastly if you can find a way to fit it in the budget, going with 16GB of RAM is a major benefit for editing purposes. Since you're just gaming on the side, I would go as far as saying drop your GPU down to a 760 if you need to and move the extra money to a 2x8GB kit of RAM. Graphics cards perform very similarly from the old 660 Ti to the 780, and everything in-between. The net performance gain of 16GB RAM is greater.
Yeah, GPU strength needed for 1440p and 1080p 120/144Hz are essentially the same.
I usually only recommend >60Hz monitors for pro gamers or people building workstations with multiple monitors though.
Yeah it is. The PB238Q and PB278Q use the same frame and stand.
Err, my bad, I should have been more clear. 280X and 770 4GB are inclusive.
+1 at the "accountant" lol
Well if you're gaming at 1440p, on AMD go anything higher than an R9 280X. For Nvidia, anything higher than a GTX 770 4GB.
Can we have the S200, Scroll T-142, and Scroll T-140 as well?
3blue is one of the best low cost gaming mice brands you can find. Great stuff. Etekcity is pretty awesome as well.
It does look strange, but it would still do you more good than an FX-8350 and a 780 or an i7 and a 280X.
If you don't want to say your budget, can you tell me what resolution and refresh rate your monitor is going to be? That way I can recommend a GPU that isn't overkill.
I think so since streamers usually have several applications open in addition to their game. Usually a browser to monitor the chat feed in that website, a voice comm system, maybe screen capture software, and possibly a stream overlay system. A lot of streamers also like to do graphical work either to edit their archived footage or to create their overlays.
Agreed on the game utilization.
But, correction, he wants to stream. As in, to a website like Twitch. 2x8GB is a major benefit there. Not streaming his display to a home device like with an Nvidia SHIELD.
Would help to see your first draft, but for now I think this is a decently balanced build for $2000:
The 840 EVO is your OS drive, the fist Vector 150 is a raw media drive, the second Vector 150 is for exports and media cache, and the Seagates are NAS HDD's that you use for backing up stuff. I would make each Seagate a copy of the other so that if one of them dies you still have a backup (so, NOT in RAID 1!).
The triple-SSD setup lets you put your program on one SSD (same as OS drive), your base photos in another, and have your export destination be the third. This setup means that none of your SSDs have to read and write to themselves at the same time; the program on one drive can read photos from the second drive and export to the third one. Makes editing much more efficient.
The Vector 150's are SSDs with high steady-state performance, which is good for large file sizes, and the 840 EVO is an SSD with good burst reads and writes, which is good for an OS and programs.
When you want to edit photos, load them from your memory card and into a Seagate drive, copy it to the second Seagate drive, and then copy it again to your raw media Vector 150. Once you're done editing, export to the second Vector 150, then cut/paste (not copy) the resulting file onto a Seagate drive, and copy it to the second Seagate drive. Then delete the original photo in the raw media drive (it's already in the Seagates).
Now everything is backed up, your work drives are clean, and you're ready for more photo editing. You can do this for batches of photos without a performance hit since you only work on a single photo at a time.
So you're selling this $1850 PC for $2700? That's quite an expensive PC building service you got there..
This is a great monitor imo: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-monitor-pb238q
It's the 23" 1080p version of my PB278Q. Has a great stand with a full spherical range of adjustment.
I suppose it has a 6ms response time... But for the record I don't notice a difference between my 6ms PB278Q and 5ms VS239H-P. Even if the resolutions were the same I'd take the better image quality and comfortable adjustable stand any day, over a 0.006 vs 0.005 second faster response time.
That's contrast not bit depth, and manufacturers always lie and use their own standards for contrast ratings anyways :P That is a nice monitor though.
I generally don't recommend PSUs under 550W for gaming builds. You don't need more than 650W, even for most dual video card builds (some need more), but it's nice to have the option of expandability.
But if your budget is tight and you don't think you'll run more than 1 GPU, then 500W will be just fine.
For streaming games I would get a 2x8GB DDR3-1600 kit, CAS 9 latency or lower. That should be more than enough.
If you have change to spare, you can think about going higher speed; just don't sacrifice latency or you counter that higher speed. It's not a big deal anyways, so don't overspend or prioritize your RAM - capacity is king here. Definitely want more than 8GB.
RAM speed/timing progression if you have extra money:
1600 CAS 9 or lower -> 1866 CAS 10 or lower -> 2133 CAS 10 or lower -> 2400 CAS 11 or lower
Well I would still start at an FX-6300 and then see how much money you have left over. It's really hard to say unless I know what your budget is. Then I can add/subtract funds from your CPU and GPU together. Because if money wasn't an object I would just tell you to get an i7. But since we're talking about AMD, that isn't the case.
If money was no object I'd forget the FX-8350 and point you to an i7-4790K and a GTX 780 Ti.
The performance gap becomes smaller as you increase your display resolution.
Keep in mind that all of those tests were using the same graphics card.
In order to have meaningful benchmarks, they did not account for the fact that when you buy an FX-8350 instead of an i5, you can use the money you save to buy a better video card.
Depending on the card, you can bridge that performance gap or even surpass it, even though the FX-8350 does not perform as highly when using an identical GPU for each CPU test.
I'm just saying that there isn't a specific CPU to get just for MMOs or big shooters. Any mainstream gaming CPU will do fine.
I would start at an FX-6300. From there, spend as much of your money as you can on an SSD and a video card. Once you have a basic SSD and the best video card you can afford, then see how much you can increase the CPU with whatever money you have left.
This way you maximize your GPU budget. Games are always more dependent on the GPU than the CPU, no matter if you're running WoW or Metro. Games with lots of NPCs and other players though, like WoW and Battlefield, do utilize the CPU more than single-player games because they need to handle physics and interactions among characters. But you're fine as long as you start with an FX-6300. At that point your GPU will be a much bigger benefit, so spend as much as you can there.
As for the CPU progression if you do have leftover funds, I recommend:
FX-6300 -> FX-8320 -> FX-8350 -> i5-4670K -> i5-4690K -> Xeon e3-1230 V3 -> i7-4770K -> i7-4790K
You likely won't go past an i5-4690K unless your budget is really big.
Unless you feel like you cycle through 1TB of data on a regular basis, I'd go for the SSD + HDD route. SSDs are expensive, and so they're meant for putting all you regularly-used stuff on them. I wouldn't get a large one just to park data on.
So, a gaming/streaming in general (CPUs aren't biased to game publishers). This really depends on what your total budget is. How much are you looking to spend on the entire PC? Specify with or without peripherals, and if operating system is included in the cost. In general though, GPU is more important than CPU when it comes to framerates.
I think you forgot to give us the link to your first draft :P
Front: 2x 120mm or 140mm
Rear: 1x 120mm or 140mm
Top: 2x 120mm (but you need 120mm for an H100i)
Bottom: 1x 120mm or 140mm
Corsair fans are nice if you want aesthetics. Noctuas are nice if you don't care (or you actually like the color) and want great silence-to-airflow ratio. There's also the kinda pricey Noiseblocker NB-eLoops, Scythe Grand Flexes, and most fans from Fractal Design. NZXT and Bitfenix make nice LED fans.
The only thing I'd actually warn about are Corsair LED fans, as they look good but all use sleeve bearings, if that is a con to you. Their regular SP and AF fans use hydraulic bearings.
Oh. Well I don't agree with your comments on that build. But that said I don't think that should lead to downvotes everywhere else..unless you were really intensely mean spirited in those comments that were deleted..