The people over at r/mousereview frequently use grip tape - which modifies the dimensions of the mouse slightly, and also provides a higher friction surface to grip against than traditional matte/glossy coatings (similar to Finalmouse's infinityskins).
That being said, what do you think of Seiko's Spring Drive movement?
The only distinct advantage of the MF108 over the One RGB is the aluminium case. Even then, though, the Shine 7 has a zinc case (more durable than an aluminium case) and the same features as the MF108 at a lower price. With that being said, it's a good idea to avoid aluminium cases if you are concerned about the sound.
I am so sorry to hear of your loss. I cannot stress how much I ******* hate depression's existence on this planet. It's a topic that is as serious as cancer, and some people don't take it as seriously as they should. Stay strong, and keep your family strong.
EDIT: and to anyone out there who suspects that someone they know is in a dark place, or anyone who feels that they are in a dark place themselves - SEEK HELP. Don't suffer in silence. It's dangerous to fight your demons alone.
The GMMK should fit into your price range. It is RGB, has an option for PBT keycaps (although you could buy different keycaps if you don't like the "pudding" style keycaps), and is fully modular with a huge selection of different switches. I would recommend these switches:
Kailh Speed Gold/Pink (clicky switches with high actuation points. The latter has the clickbar design, so it is significantly louder, however it does sacrifice tactility slightly. The former feels very similar to a blue switch, however with a slightly heavier spring and a much deeper click.)
Kailh Box Red (linear with a box design. It is famous for its 'box' design which makes it water and dust resistant.)
Kailh Box White/Jade/Navy (linear + clicky switches with a box design. The former is basically a Box Red with a click bar, so it has a mostly linear feel, but it makes a loud noise when actuated. The Jade uses a thick click bar, for a much louder click and a slightly more tactile feel. The Navy is a Box Jade with a heavier spring).
Any Cherry/Gateron switches, although be warned that the former can become expensive when buying in bulk.
The iKBC MF87 is one of the best genuine Cherry keyboards (if not, the best) out there. It has PBT keycaps with about 5-6 different types of Cherry switches available for it. Unlike most other boards in its price range, it has an aluminium case which apparently improves the feel of the keyboard, but, most importantly, it will improve the build quality significantly. The only downside is that you get a noisier board as a result of using an aluminium case, however this shouldn't be a problem if you opt for MX Blacks or Silent Reds (both of which are linear switches).
Masterkeys Pro L
GMMK with Ducky PBT caps/other cheap PBT caps
All three have RGB, however the RGB can be turned off or set to a solid colour. Out of those three, I would recommend the GMMK for its almost endless switch selection.
What motherboard is it? You'll want a Z series board ideally, as Ivy Bridge is quite good for overclocking. That leaves you with the option of upgrading to a 3770K or a 3570K later on, which are arguably more worthwhile upgrades than their locked counterparts.
I would ALWAYS take a nice analog watch over any smartwatch. Many might disagree, but I think analog watches look much nicer than digital/smart watches. I don't see the point in having everything available on your wrist when you have other devices to do that for you.
The Lancehead has a good shape. Just make sure that you get the TE version with an optical sensor, because the wireless model uses a poorly made laser sensor.
For reviews/info on mice:
http://www.rocketjumpninja.com/ (FPS veteran who has tested several mice and goes into more detail than the average tech reviewer on Youtube)
https://www.reddit.com/r/mousereview (Subreddit dedicated to gaming mice. You can find out a lot about the internals and components of gaming mice here.)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
I understand that phone manufacturers are moving towards bezelless designs but that camera hole is extremely ugly IMO.
No, you got the wrong number. This is 912.
No, you got the wrong number. This is 912.
You said that you would be doing some 3D animation with this build. The two extra cores offered by the 2700 should help in these types of scenarios. You could, of course, swap this for a 2700x if you want to.
The ASRock Taichi is one of the best X470 boards available at the moment, and it is far cheaper than the equivalent Gigabyte Gaming 7 or Crosshair VII Hero.
I added the Vega 56 to the GPU parametric filter, because this card could trade blows with the RTX 2060 all day long. I would also recommend turning your attention to the new GTX 1660 Ti, because it could be some interesting competition for these two cards.
Crossfire is the AMD equivalent to SLI.
If you're doing content creation and intend on playing at a high refresh rate (although I don't think you'd see much of a difference in most titles at 100Hz) then go for the 9700K. Having two extra cores is hugely beneficial in content creation.
What refresh rate are you going to be playing at? Do you intend to be doing any streaming/content creation with this build?
Yes. Every computer has a bottleneck, whether it is a CPU, monitor or GPU bottleneck. The scale of the bottleneck depends entirely on the scenario. A significant CPU bottleneck does not cause your CPU/GPU to lose any performance, rather it is a situation in which the CPU is the limiting factor and is unable to perform its intended purpose properly (e.g. achieve high framerates). It has nothing to do with the performance gap between the CPU and GPU. The CPU and GPU are two different things; they perform different jobs, and they are not going to restrict each others' performance if one is too powerful in comparison to the other. You could get an i5-2500K and pair it with a 1080 Ti if you wanted to, however you would only be experiencing a significant CPU bottleneck if the processor was not powerful enough to perform its function properly, even with the graphical detail/resolution turned down.
People need to stop using the term "bottleneck" so often. My daily driver contains a Core i7-950 and a GTX 980 Ti. Do I experience any significant CPU bottlenecks? No, because my CPU can achieve 60FPS fairly easily at 4K. Perhaps I would experience a CPU bottleneck at 144Hz, because my CPU would likely struggle to achieve a consistent 144FPS in modern titles. However, I don't currently own any 144Hz monitors, so that isn't an issue for me.
As the other guy said, assuming that this is a gaming build, get the CPU based on the refresh rate you wish to play at, and the video card based on the graphical settings/resolution you wish to use.
Any ergonomic chair will be miles more comfortable than a DXRacer. Most YouTubers who have these sorts of chairs (DXRacers, GT Omegas, etc) are usually sponsored by the manufacturers. That doesn't necessarily mean that these chairs are better.
Comfort should always take priority over appearance.
I would suggest looking at the Glorious GMMK (which can be bought off of the Glorious PC Gaming Race website). You can purchase the base separately if you want to. It comes in TKL and full sized variants, however Glorious are also releasing a 60% version soon.
AMD state that the maximum safe temperature of the 2600X is 95 degrees C. Your CPU should be fine.
Are you talking about hotswappable keyboards (like the Glorious GMMK) or custom built keyboards?
In gaming, yes, however only by a few frames. On a 2600 you should be able to maintain 144FPS slightly more easily than on a 1700.
If you were to consider doing editing though, I would recommend the 1700 without batting an eye, because having two extra cores makes a pretty significant difference to rendering times.
In that case the 2600 may be the better option, assuming you don't do things such as video editing or photo editing.
Depends on the frames you want to achieve and if you are doing anything besides gaming. In any workload that benefits from more than 6 cores (e.g. content creation), the 1700 will win. In gaming, the 2600 (generally) has a slight advantage, the keyword here being slight. Unless you're playing at a high refresh rate where the extra frames matter, there really isn't any point in sacrificing 2 cores for few more frames.
Honestly though, the 1700 is so cheap now that it may just be worth buying one and upgrading to Ryzen 3000 later on if you need to, as Ryzen is due to stay on AM4 for 1-2 more years.
He probably means the cheap shady keys that can be found for under retail price.
Here you go!
I think my 9800 GTX still works. Not sure.
Any cheap Amazon mouse bungee will work just fine.
They suspend your mouse cord to reduce the friction against your mousepad. This allows for a much smoother movement.
Really, they're pretty expensive for what they are, and you can get a paracord (which has the same effect) for a fraction of the price. The only downside with a paracord is that it'll void your warranty in many cases.
I would suggest looking to the G403/Rival 310/ZA13. Like the FK2, they all have fantastic shapes and should roughly be around the same size.
With that being said though, you could get another FK2 if you liked it so much.
Currently I'm awaiting the release of the first model, which appears to have a VERY similar shape to the Ultralight. The fact that it is a <70g mouse, which offers the same degree of customisation as Glorious mousepads for just $50 is simply insane.
Hopefully they don't do what FM did and make the Odin a limited edition mouse. If that's the case I'll probably just get a used Scream One and modify it.
It's made by PC Gaming Race. They're fairly well known for their mousepads and the GMMK.
I've recently been playing lots of R3E and Forza. I'm currently looking at other sims to pick up as well - most likely going to pick up AC soon.
I used to play back in the days of OR/AS but quit after a few months, I really couldn't be bothered to adapt to all of the new features that Gen 7 offered. I have made numerous attempts to return to the world of competitive Pokémon, but Gen 6 OU has most likely collapsed now, and I'd imagine that Gen 8 will be on its way soon.
I have to say though, the competitive scene behind Pokémon is fantastic. The community is by far the best competitive video game community that I have ever been a part of (by a long shot), and the fact that there are thousands of possible combinations means that no two matches are the same.
Do you collect watches as well?
I see you're a man of culture as well.
Sim racing, working out and watching the new season of TGT are my current methods of passing time.
What are some quirks that you find soothing or relaxing?
What are some quirks that you find soothing or relaxing?
Eating stupidly hot peppers.
Out of those three, I would recommend Ducky:
arguably some of the best quality keyboards out there with standard layouts, PBT keycaps and genuine MX switches
as they utilize PBT keycaps, they also win in terms of feel
haven't heard many complaints about their support. Corsair support, on the other hand, is a joke.
G502 Hero has the Hero sensor, which IIRC is cheaper for Logitech to produce than the 3366 (as it is an in-house design and not a collaboration with Pixart). It matches/exceeds the 3366 in terms of performance but allows for a longer battery life in wireless mice. Since the G502 isn't a wireless mouse, I would recommend getting whatever version is cheaper.
I would avoid the Harpoon. The sensor is a PMW3320 which has a pretty low malfunction speed, even in comparison to its $30 competitors. If the mouse exceeds ~3m/s, it spins out - not good for low sensitivity players.
The G203, on the other hand, is pretty damn good for the price (very good sensor + fairly low weight), as is the M65 Pro RGB (top sensor but high weight).
The Rival 600 is slightly lighter than the Deathadder Elite, and it has a top optical sensor. It has a slightly narrower shape than the Deathadder, however it is longer.
Steelseries are on par with Zowie in terms of mice. I personally think the Rival 310 tops the Air58 and G403 in that it has a really safe shape.
I can't stand Steelseries keyboards, though.
What Steelseries mouse were you using? Did you like the shape/dislike the shape? Was the weight alright for you? What is your budget?
If that were the case...
If that were the case...
I see what you did there. :)
PBT is more resistant to shining/corrosion than ABS, and PBT keycaps are thicker with a more textured surface.
ABS caps are more prone to shining and usually thicker, however more vibrant colors can be achieved on ABS.
POM caps have a slippery low friction surface with similar properties to PBT. These are generally more expensive than PBT.
Laser etched caps are pretty poor in quality as the coating will usually wear away over time. Because the legends are engraved into the cap, you can feel the outlines of them.
Pad printed keycaps have the legends stamped on with rubber pads. These legends can wear off over time. Similar to laser etched keycaps, you can feel the outlines of the legends.
In double shot keycaps, two pieces of plastic are molded together. This means that the legends have no texture/relief to them, and so they do not wear off over time.
Dye sub keycaps have the legends engraved into them with a laser, but then the space is filled with dye. These keycaps are similar to double shot keycaps in terms of feel and quality.
You're not going to get a pair of ANC headphones with genuine 7.1 surround sound. Active noise cancelling headphones and surround sound headsets were designed with two different audiences in mind. There are headphones out there with ANC and virtual surround, but virtual surround is pretty awful in comparison to 7.1 surround.
If you don't want to get two pairs of headphones, I'd shoot for either a pair of QC25s or a regular surround sound headset with good sound isolation.
Following on from this point, sim racing is also very fun. It's got a healthy community behind it, with a growing eSports scene too. Despite the pretty scary initial investment (which could range from $70 to $30,000 depending on what you want - some people spend more money on sim rigs than they do on their PCs!), it is arguably cheaper than real life racing in the long run. If OP has any interests in motorsport or just cars in general, it may be worth checking out.