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IdmanH
  • 20 months ago
  • Budget: $1500
  • Location: Boston
  • Use (gaming, rendering, etc): Gaming
  • Peripherals required (monitor, keyboard/mouse, etc): None
  • Operating System required: Windows 10

Comments

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type Item Price
CPU AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor $164.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler be quiet! - Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler $86.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard $99.99 @ Amazon
Memory Team - Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $140.88 @ OutletPC
Storage Samsung - 860 Evo 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $167.99 @ Amazon
Video Card MSI - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB GAMING X 8G Video Card $479.99 @ B&H
Case Fractal Design - Meshify C Dark TG ATX Mid Tower Case $98.87 @ Newegg
Power Supply Corsair - RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $79.00 @ Newegg
Operating System Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit $94.89 @ OutletPC
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total (before mail-in rebates) $1463.59
Mail-in rebates -$50.00
Total $1413.59
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-17 10:31 EDT-0400
  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

What Monitor do you plan to pair with this?

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type Item Price
CPU Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor $249.00 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler Scythe - Mugen 5 Rev. B 51.2 CFM CPU Cooler $50.00
Motherboard MSI - Z370 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $165.48 @ Amazon
Memory G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory $149.89 @ OutletPC
Storage Crucial - MX500 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $88.89 @ OutletPC
Storage Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $58.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB ROG STRIX Video Card $529.99 @ Amazon
Case NZXT - H500 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case $69.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $69.98 @ Amazon
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total $1432.11
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-19 10:45 EDT-0400
  • 20 months ago
  • -2 points

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sWgLbX A little over your budget but you can substitute the D15s for a cheaper cooler.

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

This is how you end up with a dead PC. Never ever cheap out on the PSU. IT is the mos important part of the build, a bad GPU will make your game look bad but a bad PSU can easily damage or kill parts since it is what regulates power to your whole system. Also never use a parametric filter like that since you are choosing the cheapest units and even if you added more filter it is not nearly enough since it won't come close to covering everything. Just pick the PSU by hand.

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

It's from a reputable brand, is more than enough, and it has 80+ bronze. And I used the parametric filter because PSUs go on sale all the time.

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

Brand absolutely means nothing when it comes to PSU's. Same for efficiency. Also Apevia has a fairly bad rep when it comes to PSU's since ALL of their units are junk. A parameteric filter simply does not work for PSU's since there are way too many factors when it comes to choosing a PSU that PCPP does not and can not account for when it comes to using a parameteric filter for a PSU. The only way a parametric filter works for a PSU is hand picking the units that go into it but that is totally pointless for a build in CAPL since we can assume OP is wanting to buy something reasonable soon vs. something like a build guide which may say up for a month or more which gives time for PSU prices to fluctuate.

This is how you should choose a PSU.

What you should look for in a PSU: Good performance i.e ripple ideally ~30mv or less and less than ~1.5% voltage regulation on all rails. All jap caps on the primary side (all jap caps are ideal though) since even budget units like the Corsair CXM and CX have this. Ideally some form of passive mode although its just a nice to have thing. DC-DC since this is 2018 not 2010 and a group regulated PSU shouldn't even be a thing anymore. It should have OTP, OPP OVP, OCP, and SCP protections that work. And modular in some form although that is just a nice to have. That is just the basics.

What you should not look for is: Efficiency i.e gold, bronze, etc has nothing at all do with how good or bad a PSU is. Brand, it is really meaningless outside of stuff like Logsyis, Diablotek, etc who solely produce low quality dangerous PSU's, most brands have high end, low end, and stuff in between. Do not look at efficiency, unless you are going to be using the 24/7 it really won't matter outside of extremes i.e titanium vs. non 80+ rating or something like that. For gold vs. bronze the difference will usually be less than a dollar a month, is the cost of a taco from tacobell really worth worrying about? Also do not worry about the 50% efficiency BS that is going around, the difference in efficiency between like 30% load, 50%, and 70% is going to be literally a few pennies if that saved a month which means it would take decades to make up the cost difference between a 550W and 650W that have a $10 price gap.

If you want to learn more about PSU's in depth and actually be able to choose one and actually compare them here are some links that have nearly everything you could want to know listed in the order you should read them in.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-power-supplies/ (easy)

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/why-99-percent-of-power-supply-reviews-are-wrong/ (easy)

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/how-we-test-psu,4042.html#p1 (easy to medium)

https://www.corsair.com/us/en/blog/why-does-a-better-power-supply-mean-a-better-computer-experience (easy)

hhttps://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/2053-power-supply-voltage-ripple-and-relevance (easy)

http://www.overclock.net/t/761202/single-rail-vs-multi-rail-explained (easy)

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supplies-101,4193.html (hard)

https://www.techpowerup.com/articles//overclocking/psu/160/1 (hard)

For sites that you should use for reviews: Tomshardware, HardOCP, Techpowerup, Jonnyguru, and really any site that at least tests ripple, voltage regulation, and opens the PSU up to examine it.

https://cse.google.com/cse/publicurl?cx=006175293167390918428:pda9ozdd3wq

I made this custom search engine to look for only PSU reviews from the proper sites.

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

oh, does the filter show a different result for you? When I put the filter together it was a 620w seasonic unit

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

That is probably because I have MiR turned off since they are misleading. I assume that it is the M12II/S12II which also isn't a good choice, most brands have a wide range of PSU's varying in quality and performance.

The M12II/S12II is a poor choice in PSU and is not suited for modern builds. It lacks OTP and OCP protection, it doesn't support C6/C7 power states, and it is group regulated which means during crossload the 5V rail or the 12V rail could get quite ugly or even go out of spec. Plus its known to be a loud PSU. It was a decent PSU choice in 2010 but it days have long passed.

Farther info

It lacks crucial safety protections

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supplies-101,4193-21.html

Its doesn't support low power states although its is pennies amounts so it is just icing on top of the cake.

It is group regulated which means that it can't out put its full power on the 12V rail and the 12V/5V rail uses one coil and when the load isn't balance e.g high load on one and low on the other aka crossload it has a very hard time regulating voltage which means that voltage regulation on the 12V and 5V can get ugly or even out spec if you push the PSU hard enough.

https://www.techpowerup.com/articles/overclocking/psu/160/

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